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[I should be doing hw]

My PC has been shutting down and rebooting without a blue screen or warning every now and then for about a week now. No idea what is causing it, this is the message I get from windows after it boots up though:

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.1.7600.2.0.0.256.48
Locale ID: 3081

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode: 3b
BCP1: 00000000C0000005
BCP2: FFFFF88004988817
BCP3: FFFFF88007DB9900
BCP4: 0000000000000000
OS Version: 6_1_7600
Service Pack: 0_0
Product: 256_1

Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\011211-19750-01.dmp
C:\Users\Tim\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-48218-0.sysdata.xml

I noticed there that it does say 'BlueScreen' but I never technically get one. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[MrGame&Watch]

So I just finished my first build(my samsung F3 1tb had wasn't working at all, and my friends and I tried everything so we went with a western digital and it's working fine)

Case: Antec 300
CPU: i5 2500k
Motherboard: Asus p8p67
Memory: OCZ DDR3 1330 Gold Rimmed 2x4gb(8gb)
PSU: OCZ ModXStream-Pro 500W
Graphics: Galaxy GeForce GTX 460
Hard Drive: Western Digital 1TB Green SATA HDD
Windows 7 64-bit OEM

All of it from Micro Center. That motherboard, processor bundle helped me keep it under $900 which i think is pretty good

 

[vazel]

My PC has been shutting down and rebooting without a blue screen or warning every now and then for about a week now. No idea what is causing it, this is the message I get from windows after it boots up though:

I noticed there that it does say 'BlueScreen' but I never technically get one. Any help would be appreciated.

Bugcheck 3b is a graphics driver error. Try changing your gpu driver.

 

[AkIRA_22]

Don't have it installed at the moment...but I'm pretty sure my rig would destroy WiC. My Q8300 and GTX 275 maxed the game at like 30fps. My new rig has about 3x the GPU power, and 2x the CPU power.

You would be surprised, it just keeps scaling. Even the best of the best SLi rigs of only 6 months ago would only hit 50-60fps. That may sound like a lot but the same rigs would get identical FPS in Crysis. Fun fact, both WiC and Crysis were released in 2007, both are still benchmarks!

 

[I should be doing hw]

Bugcheck 3b is a graphics driver error. Try changing your gpu driver.

Ah, thanks for that. Win7 flagged an error when I installed my ATI driver for my 5850 via Steam. I re-installed it manually but that obviously hasn't worked.
I guess I should roll back then?

 

[Fredescu]

I noticed there that it does say 'BlueScreen' but I never technically get one. Any help would be appreciated.

The default is to automatically reboot on a bluescreen. To change this so you can see which file it's complaining about, right click on Computer, Advanced tab, click the Settings button in the Startup and Recovery section, under the System Failure section uncheck "Automatically restart."

 

[vocab]

Ah, thanks for that. Win7 flagged an error when I installed my ATI driver for my 5850 via Steam. I re-installed it manually but that obviously hasn't worked.
I guess I should roll back then?

I said it plenty of times. 10.12's suck. They are preview drivers, they aren't stable for most people, and they are older than 10.11's. Go 10.10e until 11.1 or 10.13.

 

[Hazaro]

My updates:

Ordered a 2500K and ASUS P8P67 Pro from TigerDirect on Jan 9th. First order with them. Saving about $40 over newegg and I get 2 day shipping (newegg would be 2 day anyway).
Big mistake.

The order is 1 day away and it gets stopped midway due to fradulent activity. No presumable reason after talking to 5 people. Place the order and get the same items sent via 1 day for $7 less. That's ok for spending 47 minutes on the phone.

Except the reported in-stock 2500K is actually backordered and apparently my original package is now in my state. No idea whats going to happen now. Not very pelased at all. Amazon still doesn't have the 2500K in-stock otherwise I would have ordered it from there via 1 day shipping for $4.

So tomorrow I'll have everything I need besides the 2500K (and the 1156 adapter for my TRUE 120).
:[

 

[Blackface]

Going to be ordering the 2500K and ASUS P8P67 from Ncix tomorrow. Possibly going to grab 8 gigs of Kingston HyperX Blu since if you package it with one of the Asus boards it's $39 per 4 gig kit.

 

[Hazaro]

Buy G.Skill and Kingston HyperX to support eSports!

 

[Wallach]

My updates:

Ordered a 2500K and ASUS P8P67 Pro from TigerDirect on Jan 9th. First order with them. Saving about $40 over newegg and I get 2 day shipping (newegg would be 2 day anyway).
Big mistake.

The order is 1 day away and it gets stopped midway due to fradulent activity. No presumable reason after talking to 5 people. Place the order and get the same items sent via 1 day for $7 less. That's ok for spending 47 minutes on the phone.

Except the reported in-stock 2500K is actually backordered and apparently my original package is now in my state. No idea whats going to happen now. Not very pelased at all. Amazon still doesn't have the 2500K in-stock otherwise I would have ordered it from there via 1 day shipping for $4.

So tomorrow I'll have everything I need besides the 2500K (and the 1156 adapter for my TRUE 120).
:[

That sucks. It's experiences like that which have caused me to almost exclusively buy from Newegg for PC components (Amazon is my back up).

 

[JoeBoy101]

My updates:

Ordered a 2500K and ASUS P8P67 Pro from TigerDirect on Jan 9th. First order with them. Saving about $40 over newegg and I get 2 day shipping (newegg would be 2 day anyway).
Big mistake.

The order is 1 day away and it gets stopped midway due to fradulent activity. No presumable reason after talking to 5 people. Place the order and get the same items sent via 1 day for $7 less. That's ok for spending 47 minutes on the phone.

Except the reported in-stock 2500K is actually backordered and apparently my original package is now in my state. No idea whats going to happen now. Not very pelased at all. Amazon still doesn't have the 2500K in-stock otherwise I would have ordered it from there via 1 day shipping for $4.

So tomorrow I'll have everything I need besides the 2500K (and the 1156 adapter for my TRUE 120).
:[

Really sorry to hear man, but I'm conflicted as my Newegg order was delayed a day for verification and I was -> <- this close to bailing and going for Tiger Direct. Sounds like I made the right choice by staying with Newegg.

Of course though, all my orders are hitting Raleigh and getting Adverse Weather Conditions notices. Grr. Roads aren't that bad at all this morning, goddamit!

 

[xero273]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131687
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131681

Leaning towards the LE. Only difference I see is extra sata port, usb port, and bluetooth. Also, the digi vrm. Is it worth the $20 to get the P8P67?

Retracted my opinion on the Samsung for now...forgot about the F4 firmware issue. It's also not at $80 anymore.

I was looking at getting this drive. What is the firmware issue?

 

[sam27368]

I know this isn't the right thread for it but the knowledge some of you guys have is fantastic.

I'm getting some slowdown (not much, it's only noticeable when lots of effects and light sources are going on at once) on Metro 2033 which I was surprised at, given my specs. I'm running it in 1080 on ultra high. What are the best settings from then on (I want to keep it at 1080, ultra high in terms of AA and such on the Nvidia panel) for it?

I'm running 2x GTX 570 in SLi, and an i7 oc'ed to 4.2ghz with 6gb ram.

 

[matmanx1]

Just Cause 2...*drool*

Gotta remember to turn that horrendous motion blur off though!

Just tried SLI Furmark. Wow. Nothing can prepare you for the amount of heat generated by the system. You could probably heat quite a few rooms in the winter time with that on. 600W of heat being pumped out at high speeds.

I actually ordered a copy of Just Cause 2 from Newegg with my CPU just to get the order total over $250, hehe. That way it kicked in the "no interest for 6 months with preferred account" deal and will ease the payoff. I've only played a couple minutes of Just Cause 2 but it seemed like it would be lots of fun.

 

[matmanx1]

Corsair 650D gallery
http://www.computerbase.de/bildstrecke/32474/1/
http://www.computerbase.de/news/har...anuar/corsair-zeigt-midi-tower-obsidian-650d/

I didn't mind the 650D's window that much initially, but I could certainly do without it, particularly since it isn't implemented well.

I think I've made it clear how much I like the case. Still, I don't know if I can get around $200 for a mid-tower that is largely made from steel and doesn't necessarily offer a great deal that other competitors don't offer, or do better. Is it worth $60 more than a Silverstone RV02? It certainly won't cool quite as well as a Raven/FT02. Yeah the space and cable routing is nice, but I think people get overly enamored with that aspect of Corsair cases, especially mid-tower users who have come from enclosures with relatively abysmal routing and are either too lazy, or lack the know how to get around that limitation. A lot of users seem to just want to press the "win" button in that regard. Not that big of a deal to me. I actually like doing cable routing, even inside of challenging enclosures.


No SATA 3. No USB 3.

I'd go FT02 or RV02 all the way. You get all the space bonuses of a full tower without having the height of a full tower because of the way those cases are laid out. Yes they are long but in my experience a longer case is easier to deal with than a tall one. And like you said, the Silverstone cases are champs when it comes to cooling.

 

[iNvid02]

I actually ordered a copy of Just Cause 2 from Newegg with my CPU just to get the order total over $250, hehe. That way it kicked in the "no interest for 6 months with preferred account" deal and will ease the payoff. I've only played a couple minutes of Just Cause 2 but it seemed like it would be lots of fun.

it is a lot of fun, i attempted to do the story but it was too painful to endure. whenever i play JC2 now i end up fucking about for about an hour. as long as blow shit up your still progressing though.

 

[AshMcCool]

Does anybody know how Elixir DDR Ram is? Or should I go for a Kingston or Corsair product. Does it even matter? Bulding a PC for a friend...

 

[TheExodu5]

I know this isn't the right thread for it but the knowledge some of you guys have is fantastic.

I'm getting some slowdown (not much, it's only noticeable when lots of effects and light sources are going on at once) on Metro 2033 which I was surprised at, given my specs. I'm running it in 1080 on ultra high. What are the best settings from then on (I want to keep it at 1080, ultra high in terms of AA and such on the Nvidia panel) for it?

I'm running 2x GTX 570 in SLi, and an i7 oc'ed to 4.2ghz with 6gb ram.

The one setting that kills performance is Advanced DOF, in the DX11 settings.

edit: also, make sure you have SLI enabled in the NVidia drivers.

 

[n0n44m]

just ordered a 2600k from the UK, hope it gets here by Friday

got a p8p67 PRO and 8 gig Corsair Vengeance 1866 to go with it + my Mugen 2

that should cover my processing needs for the coming 2 years :lol

(well a second GTX480 might be an option but it seems to run everything pretty good in 1080p at the moment and going SLI would require a new PSU as well ... so might as well wait and see what Crysis 2 brings to the table )

 

[JoeBoy101]

just ordered a 2600k from the UK, hope it gets here by Friday

got a p8p67 PRO and 8 gig Corsair Vengeance 1866 to go with it + my Mugen 2

that should cover my processing needs for the coming 2 years :lol

(well a second GTX480 might be an option but it seems to run everything pretty good in 1080p at the moment and going SLI would require a new PSU as well ... so might as well wait and see what Crysis 2 brings to the table )

Unasked for FYI, GTX570 is benchmarking slightly over the 480 while using less power. Not saying you should necessarily switch, but possibly bear in mind for SLI.

 

[dani_dc]

So I took out the motherboard and here's the result of my "small" issue last night.
PC was working fine with one memory stick, left it on for a few minutes and no issues.
So turned off the PC (PSU too if I recall), put the second RAM stick, I turn on the PC and after a few seconds it restarts (Seems it might be an issue that the board has with 1600Mhz memories). A few seconds after (4-5 if that long) I smell burning and see some smoke, turned it off immediately.
After that the PC fails to go past the POST, it lights up the CPU_LED and there's no beeping sound regardless (both things point to the fact that the Motherboard can't contact with the CPU if I understand correctly).

Anyway I dismantled the PC and had a look next to the B2 slot (the one where I put my second RAM).

This was the result.

Now I'm a bit overhelmed about what to do, as I have no idea if this was a defective mobo and, if that was indeed the case, how to prove that.
Plus I hear RMA around here can take up to 40 days seeing as they send the item back to the manufactures for testing and only after all that process is done do they give back an answer, and I'm not entirely sure if I should send the whole thing back or just the mobo/ram (pretty sure those fried as well but have no way of testing it). CPU didn't had any apparent damage nor did anything else besides that area in the picture.

Either way in the best of chances I'll be some 3 weeks without a PC and in the worst I'll be some 5 weeks without it and having to pay for a new mother board and RAM (and who knows what else) :lol

On a more positive note, the CM 690 II Advanced is even nicer looking than I expected.

 

[Wizman23]

Its about time I got myself a REAL PC. I'm absolutely clueless about this stuff though so I'm thankful for this thread. I want a gaming PC but nothing needs to be hardcore cutting edge. I don't need Crysis running at max 120 FPS or anything like that, however I'd like my machine to run games like that at least decently and better then what they do on current consoles. I have a macbook that I will continue to use for all my other computing needs just for its convenience so this PC will be 100% dedicated to gaming.

Your Current Specs: None
Budget: maximum $1,000 (I'm in the US)
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: WoW at max settings, Starcraft 2, Portal 2, Fallout NV, future proofed for Elder Scrolls 5, Diablo 3.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: Hopefully soon but doesn't really matter
Will you be overclocking?: Not really sure what overclocking does but considering I'm not going for balls to the walls graphics performance I would say no.

Thanks in advance

 

[TheExodu5]

problems

That sucks.

Must have been a short in the motherboard.

Its about time I got myself a REAL PC. I'm absolutely clueless about this stuff though so I'm thankful for this thread. I want a gaming PC but nothing needs to be hardcore cutting edge. I don't need Crysis running at max 120 FPS or anything like that, however I'd like my machine to run games like that at least decently and better then what they do on current consoles. I have a macbook that I will continue to use for all my other computing needs just for its convenience so this PC will be 100% dedicated to gaming.

Your Current Specs: None
Budget: maximum $1,000 (I'm in the US)
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: WoW at max settings, Starcraft 2, Portal 2, Fallout NV, future proofed for Elder Scrolls 5, Diablo 3.
Are reusing any parts?: Nope
When will you build?: Hopefully soon but doesn't really matter
Will you be overclocking?: Not really sure what overclocking does but considering I'm not going for balls to the walls graphics performance I would say no.

Thanks in advance

Approximate build:

Case - $90 (pick one from the OP...maybe HAF 922 or CM 690 II)
Corsair 650TX - $90
Core i5 2500K - $220
Asus P8P67 - $140
8GB DDR3-1333 - $90
6850 or GTX 460 - $180
Samsung F3 1TB 7200RPM - $70
DVD-RW - $30
Cooler Master Hyper 212+ - $30
Windows 7 Home Premium - $100

Cost: $1040 + tax

If you want to cut costs, you can bring the case down to an Antec 300 ($60 instead of $90), and PSU down to an OCZ StealthXstream ($60 instead of $90), and RAM down to 4GB ($50 instead of $90). That would bring your price down to $940 + tax.

That will allow you to keep the option of overclocking. At this point, unless going for a cheap build, I'd probably recommend sticking with 8GB of RAM. $40 extra is pretty cheap for all that headroom. While 4GB is enough as it stands, adding another 4GB in the future also means compromising your ability to overclock, making it the less desirable option.

 

[Nabs]

Hey Wizman, are you anywhere near a www.microcenter.com? They have fantastic 2500k/motherboard bundles for cheap. Actually, I don't know if the bundles are still available, but they still have good prices on the cpu.

 

[JoeBoy101]

Issues

Oh God. I got the same mobo and memory coming in. *crosses fingers*

 

[Wizman23]

Hey Wizman, are you anywhere near a www.microcenter.com? They have fantastic 2500k/motherboard bundles for cheap. Actually, I don't know if the bundles are still available, but they still have good prices on the cpu.

Yeah believe it or not there is one right by me. Thanks for the help guys

 

[TheExodu5]

As a reminder, always remember to unplug the power supply (not just turn off the switch), and wait 5-10 seconds for the capacitors to discharge. Also, try to remember to touch the case to discharge any static buildup in your body before plugging anything in.

I have forgotten to do both of these things several times (even forgot to turn off the PSU when putting in my second GTX 570 last night). I've been lucky.

 

[Emitan]

Anyone hear about any issues with the newest ATI drivers? My main monitor is a crappy ~15 inch Dell that I bought at a Goodwill Computers for cheap and is hooked up to my 5770 through DVI. If I enable my second monitor (24 inch 1200P Samsung Monitor/TV combo) the main screen (Dell) gets these weird black bars flashing across the screen whenever something happens on the Samsung. This wasn't happening before, so is this a driver issue? I have a 750W PSU, which is way more than enough for this setup.

 

[matmanx1]

Anyone hear about any issues with the newest ATI drivers? My main monitor is a crappy ~15 inch Dell that I bought at a Goodwill Computers for cheap and is hooked up to my 5770 through DVI. If I enable my second monitor (24 inch 1200P Samsung Monitor/TV combo) the main screen (Dell) gets these weird black bars flashing across the screen whenever something happens on the Samsung. This wasn't happening before, so is this a driver issue? I have a 750W PSU, which is way more than enough for this setup.

Yeah I've heard of some Eyefinity issues for sure. Have you tried going back to an older driver? I'm not having issues with 10.12 but I hear other people are.

 

[Emitan]

Yeah I've heard of some Eyefinity issues for sure. Have you tried going back to an older driver? I'm not having issues with 10.12 but I hear other people are.

I'm going to tonight after work. For some reason it never occurred to me that it would be a driver issue until this morning. I never think clearly until I can't do anything about something :lol

 

[Emitan]

I found this which might fix the issue: http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles/Pages/AMDCatalyst1012ahotfix.aspx

Has anyone tried this?

 

[PjotrStroganov]

That sucks.

Must have been a short in the motherboard.



Approximate build:

Case - $90 (pick one from the OP...maybe HAF 922 or CM 690 II)
Corsair 650TX - $90
Core i5 2500K - $220
Asus P8P67 - $140
8GB DDR3-1333 - $90
6850 or GTX 460 - $180
Samsung F3 1TB 7200RPM - $70
DVD-RW - $30
Cooler Master Hyper 212+ - $30
Windows 7 Home Premium - $100

Cost: $1040 + tax

If you want to cut costs, you can bring the case down to an Antec 300 ($60 instead of $90), and PSU down to an OCZ StealthXstream ($60 instead of $90), and RAM down to 4GB ($50 instead of $90). That would bring your price down to $940 + tax.

That will allow you to keep the option of overclocking. At this point, unless going for a cheap build, I'd probably recommend sticking with 8GB of RAM. $40 extra is pretty cheap for all that headroom. While 4GB is enough as it stands, adding another 4GB in the future also means compromising your ability to overclock, making it the less desirable option.

Didn't you forget to include the monitor?

 

[jiien]

Didn't you forget to include the monitor?

He didn't forget. Typically, people already have a monitor they use (hence, shooting for a specific resolution).

That said, yes, you will obviously need one if you don't already. It can run you anywhere from 100 to several thousand, depending on what you want.

Edit: On Newegg, for a decent 1080p monitor, $180 is about what you're looking at, to add to that total. Assuming you don't go crazy in the future, and things don't drastically change, that monitor should last you a decent while (which is why people don't often include them in builds). If the guy already has an HDTV that can handle 1080p, he might be better served using that? I dunno, up to the builder.

 

[Wizman23]

He didn't forget. Typically, people already have a monitor they use (hence, shooting for a specific resolution).

That said, yes, you will obviously need one if you don't already. It can run you anywhere from 100 to several thousand, depending on what you want.

Edit: On Newegg, for a decent 1080p monitor, $180 is about what you're looking at, to add to that total. Assuming you don't go crazy in the future, and things don't drastically change, that monitor should last you a decent while (which is why people don't often include them in builds). If the guy already has an HDTV that can handle 1080p, he might be better served using that? I dunno, up to the builder.

Yeah I have a 1080p projector I use and another monitor laying around so that isn't much of an issue at all.

 

[Wallach]

Been toying with my 5850 OC more this morning and it's clear to me that the memory is simply not willing to budge. For some reason the stock clocks on this Visiontek non-reference is 760/1050, and even 1100 on the memory will straight up crash Furmark in under 10 mins. 850/1050 stands up to Furmark's bullying just fine. Not sure what the core's limit will wind up being at stock volts but I might leave it here for now. Oh well.

 

[n0n44m]

Unasked for FYI, GTX570 is benchmarking slightly over the 480 while using less power. Not saying you should necessarily switch, but possibly bear in mind for SLI.

I know but I'm running mine overclocked with a big ass aftermarket cooler so grabbing a second seems like less of a hassle than selling it, buying 2 570s and then deciding they're too noisy and grabbing 2 more aftermarket coolers :lol but the more I think about it the more I conclude that more power than a single GTX480 isn't needed at 1080p until the PS4/Xbox3 are here and developers come out with some more punishing engines BFBC2 is silky smooth in dx11 1080p with options maxed on my Athlon II X4 compared to the 30 FPS 720p PS3 version :lol

At first my CPU_LED was on and pc would restart once, I realized I forgot to put an ATX cable, turn it on and it worked but now my DRAM_LED was on and it still restarted once. I tried no RAM and it beeped cause it found no memory.
Tried just one stick didn't work, then realized I simply wasn't connecting it well enough, do so and the PC boots up without issues and I let it on for a minute or two. Was rather happy, so I went to put the second RAM stick, the thing restarted again and after a few seconds I see smoke =\lovely.

just ordered the same motherboard so I hope I won't have issues (have used 5 Asus boards now never been disappointed)

but when you say not connected well enough, you mean like you didn't push it entirely in the slot before you booted it? Because that will usually create sparks and smoke as it shorts out the DIMM (or PCI-e card for that matter) because the wrong "pins" are connecting with each other.

 

[sam27368]

The one setting that kills performance is Advanced DOF, in the DX11 settings.

edit: also, make sure you have SLI enabled in the NVidia drivers.

Ah so that's the problem! Thanks loads, I thought the DoF wasn't very nice anyway so am happy to turn it off.

 

[PjotrStroganov]

Yeah I have a 1080p projector I use and another monitor laying around so that isn't much of an issue at all.

Ah okay. Thought you were asking for a 1080p monitor.

 

[TheExodu5]

Ah so that's the problem! Thanks loads, I thought the DoF wasn't very nice anyway so am happy to turn it off.

Yup. Without advanced DOF, the game runs at around 80fps, maxed out on SLI GTX 570.

 

[peppermints]

Here's my tentative component list.. I'm basically building an Asus computer. :lol Kinda makes me weary that all of the key/expensive components except for CPU are from one manufacturer.. Should I worry?

Just have to figure out which case/PSU (any recommendation on the PSU?), sell my MacBook Pro and I'm good to go.

 

[TheExodu5]

Here's my tentative component list.. I'm basically building an Asus computer. :lol Kinda makes me weary that all of the key/expensive components except for CPU are from one manufacturer.. Should I worry?

Just have to figure out which case/PSU (any recommendation on the PSU?), sell my MacBook Pro and I'm good to go.

If there's one manufacturer I trust for hardware components, it's Asus (and Corsair).

 

[rogue74]

I have a what I feel is a somewhat stupid question, but I'll ask anyway.

I recently built a machine that is equipped with a GTX 460 1GB. Proc is a Athlon II 635 quad. I am about to upgrade my monitor (been using an older 17 inch 1280 X 1024 LCD).

Question is, when looking for a monitor, should I go with 1980 X 1080? Or should I get a 1680 X 1050? Reason I ask is because since on an LCD you always want to run at native resolution, am I going to run into framerate problems in the near future. Or is the 460 powerful enough to run games at high detail at 1080p? Or even better, has scaling improved to the point that it doesn't matter?

In the past, when I scaled back the resolution on my current monitor (when it was attached to my old PC) the results were fugly.

 

[TheExodu5]

I have a what I feel is a somewhat stupid question, but I'll ask anyway.

I recently built a machine that is equipped with a GTX 460 1GB. Proc is a Athlon II 635 quad. I am about to upgrade my monitor (been using an older 17 inch 1280 X 1024 LCD).

Question is, when looking for a monitor, should I go with 1980 X 1080? Or should I get a 1680 X 1050? Reason I ask is because since on an LCD you always want to run at native resolution, am I going to run into framerate problems in the near future. Or is the 460 powerful enough to run games at high detail at 1080p? Or even better, has scaling improved to the point that it doesn't matter?

In the past, when I scaled back the resolution on my current monitor (when it was attached to my old PC) the results were fugly.

Scaling is still awful on TN panels. Still, 1GB GTX 460 performs very well at 1080p.

 

[peppermints]

If there's one manufacturer I trust for hardware components, it's Asus (and Corsair).

Good to hear. I recently bought an Eee PC and I'm loving it so far.

Will I be missing much if I get a 768MB card over a 1GB? I figure I can get that now and deal with it for a while (I haven't really been into PC gaming since 2006 with a 6600GT, so everything will look and run amazingly to me) and if I feel like it's not enough I can upgrade in 6 or so months.

 

[JoeBoy101]

I have a what I feel is a somewhat stupid question, but I'll ask anyway.

I recently built a machine that is equipped with a GTX 460 1GB. Proc is a Athlon II 635 quad. I am about to upgrade my monitor (been using an older 17 inch 1280 X 1024 LCD).

Question is, when looking for a monitor, should I go with 1980 X 1080? Or should I get a 1680 X 1050? Reason I ask is because since on an LCD you always want to run at native resolution, am I going to run into framerate problems in the near future. Or is the 460 powerful enough to run games at high detail at 1080p? Or even better, has scaling improved to the point that it doesn't matter?

In the past, when I scaled back the resolution on my current monitor (when it was attached to my old PC) the results were fugly.

Depends on your preference. 22 in is enough for me, so I go 1680 x 1050 so I can ensure a bit more frames out of my GPU. That said, 1980X1080 is native HD. Your 460 should handle both well though.

 

[gragy10]

UK GAF'ers - where would you recommend for quality but keenly priced DDR3 RAM?

 

[TheExodu5]

Good to hear. I recently bought an Eee PC and I'm loving it so far.

Will I be missing much if I get a 768MB card over a 1GB? I figure I can get that now and deal with it for a while (I haven't really been into PC gaming since 2006 with a 6600GT, so everything will look and run amazingly to me) and if I feel like it's not enough I can upgrade in 6 or so months.

If you're running at 1080p, I'd go for the 1GB.

 

[Najaf]

If anyone is running an EVGA GTX 460, they recently released the FPB which unlocks 100% fan speed on all models and gives a stable 6% increase to the core/processor making it 720/1440 on two models. (including my two GTX 460 1024MB EE [external exhaust] cards)

It's great for those not comfortable in overclocking themselves and everyone can use the max fan speed.

link

 

[iNvid02]

UK GAF'ers - where would you recommend for quality but keenly priced DDR3 RAM?

http://www.memoryc.com/