"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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rabhw said:
What voltage are you running at to get 4.5? I can't seem to get my 2500k to boot at anything over 4.4, and that's with the voltage set at 1.35v, which is as high as I'm comfortable going.
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Up your Pll and make sure your BLCK is hard locked to 100, if it goes up even 5% it could damage your chipset. all OC should be done through the turbo multiplier.
 
Looking to find a good deal on a notebook for my Dad.

I'm sure any low end model would be significantly better than what he has:
AMD Turion 64 X2 Tl-56 1.8GHz
ATI Radeon X1270
Vista Home
1GB RAM

I don't need to play video games on it, but I want it to star up fast, have fast internet browsing, and have an HDMI out to play Netflix on a 1080p 32" LCD.

Can the TV output the sound?


Also, what's your opinion on warranties?
 
mclaren777 said:
Newegg is having a massive 48-hour sale

Link
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pretty meh, They would have been better to compete with microcenter for the best deal for the 2500k.

Now that i have an SSD, i cant wait to switch over everything to solid state. Plus its so small.
 
ZZMitch said:
Well I ran MSI Kombuster for four hours and Prime 95 for over six and didn't get any warnings or crashes of anykind.

Kombuster leveled out at 63C with an average of 30 fps, something interesting I saw was that memory was at 250% I don't know exactly what that means...

Prime95 passed every test, although one core finished only 93 tests while the other three were between 113 and 120. I don't know if that indicates anything though. Still gotta get that memtest working, and maybe try a bios update and windows reformat... doesn't seem to be a hardware issue from those tests, but you never know with random crashes, they are a bitch to solve!

edit: oh and windows indicated to me that I am missing a usb driver or something, could that be a cause of my issues? I am not sure...

I am sorry for posting so much, but I am trying to learn more about using and taking care of PCs on a more advanced level, and as annoying as this issue is for gaming, it is kind of interesting to solve. I am learning a lot, at any rate!
Click to expand...

Anyone able to enlighten me? Do either of these tests stress RAM at all or anything?
 
Since a lot of us seem to be buying or have already bought the Cooler Master 212+ cooler – how is everyone applying the thermal paste?

Last time I did this I applied a small amount directly to the processor and spread it out thinly with a credit card. But because of the groves in the direct pipe design of the 212+ should I do the 2 line method that was highlighted a few pages back?

Just wondering.
 
TheKurgan said:
Since a lot of us seem to be buying or have already bought the Cooler Master 212+ cooler – how is everyone applying the thermal paste?

Last time I did this I applied a small amount directly to the processor and spread it out thinly with a credit card. But because of the groves in the direct pipe design of the 212+ should I do the 2 line method that was highlighted a few pages back?
Click to expand...
I plan to use the method from a few pages back...because I'm the one who posted it. :)

Thermal paste application

O6yEm.jpg


sJLjO.jpg
 
ZZMitch said:
Anyone able to enlighten me? Do either of these tests stress RAM at all or anything?
Click to expand...

MSI Kombuster is a video stress (or torture :P) test based on the good old Furmark, which only stresses the video card (incredibly hard and more than any game ever will I might add)

Prime 95 stresses CPU, memory and everything in between (chipset and stuff) depending on the option you use. I suppose you downloaded the latest version? If you choose torture test it gives 3 options with some indications behind them on what they stress; I usually choose "small FFTs" when I want to check my CPU overclock/stability ... I can't remember my cores finishing different amount of tests though ? Open task manager and check on the performance tab if all your cores are 100% stressed

If you would like to test the RAM just use Memtest86+ from a USB stick

but if both Kombuster and Prime95 run for multiple hours without crashing, and a couple of hours of memtest don't result in any errors either, I'd say you are looking at a driver/software issue

TheKurgan said:
Since a lot of us seem to be buying or have already bought the Cooler Master 212+ cooler – how is everyone applying the thermal paste?

Last time I did this I applied a small amount directly to the processor and spread it out thinly with a credit card. But because of the groves in the direct pipe design of the 212+ should I do the 2 line method that was highlighted a few pages back?

Just wondering.
Click to expand...

the 2 line seems decent

spreading thinly with a credit card isn't recommended for todays CPUs as they all use rather massive heatspreaders .. check this vid :D
 
n0n44m said:
MSI Kombuster is a video stress (or torture :P) test based on the good old Furmark, which only stresses the video card (incredibly hard and more than any game ever will I might add)

Prime 95 stresses CPU, memory and everything in between (chipset and stuff) depending on the option you use. I suppose you downloaded the latest version? If you choose torture test it gives 3 options with some indications behind them on what they stress; I usually choose "small FFTs" when I want to check my CPU overclock/stability ... I can't remember my cores finishing different amount of tests though ? Open task manager and check on the performance tab if all your cores are 100% stressed

If you would like to test the RAM just use Memtest86+ from a USB stick
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response! I ran Prime 95 through the small TTFs one for most of the six hours I was using it.

Is running memtest off a USB stick as easy as putting the program in the stick? I mean I am guessing I have to set my bios to boot off the stick somehow. I tried using a CD and using the iso file, but the program that came with my BD drive wouldn't let me make the disk bootable, I could only burn the iso to the disk if I unchecked the make bootable option, which isnt gunna help me any.

I did run the Windows Memory Diagnostic and that went through without error, but I heard that isn't nearly as good as memtest.
 
So here's my plan:

I'm gonna build a system now and have it all ready for SLI at some point in the future. I'm getting an i5 2500K and the necessary PSU all set to go so I can just slide a car in later when the same card will be cheaper, as a nice bump up in power when I have extra cash some time. My question is, I cannot afford a GTX 580. I'm not even sure I can afford a 570 right now. Would the 560 be a perfectly good card to run just about anything right now at impressive levels? I'm talking Bad Company 2, Borderlands, Civ 5, Witcher 2. Not the "system testers". Once I SLI a 560, I know I'd be more than good and can start rubbing my dick on it.
 
keeblerdrow said:
So here's my plan:

I'm gonna build a system now and have it all ready for SLI at some point in the future. I'm getting an i5 2500K and the necessary PSU all set to go so I can just slide a car in later when the same card will be cheaper, as a nice bump up in power when I have extra cash some time. My question is, I cannot afford a GTX 580. I'm not even sure I can afford a 570 right now. Would the 560 be a perfectly good card to run just about anything right now at impressive levels? I'm talking Bad Company 2, Borderlands, Civ 5, Witcher 2. Not the "system testers". Once I SLI a 560, I know I'd be more than good and can start rubbing my dick on it.
Click to expand...

560 is more than enough, i run everything 1080p high setting on a GTX 460.
 
doing it right now, I'll run a 3d11 run and see what's changed

edit: GTX480 : more or less the same scores as on the previous WHQL driver

edit 2: I was already running the latest beta since Friday so this might be the same driver with a WHQL certificate slapped on it ... I am interested to see if it does improve scores on a GTX500 series card =]
 
I dunno if anyone can help me with this, but I'm trying to recreate my NewEgg build at NCIXUS.com.

I can't seem to find half of the parts in my NewEgg cart, and I don't really know what would a good alternative to them.

Samsung HD103SJ - I must be doing it wrong, because I can't find any Samsung hard drives at the NCIXUS.com website.

I can't find any of these three items either:

73o6r.png


I know it's asking a lot, but if anyone could help me find these items or good alternatives on the NCIXUS website, I would appreciate it.
 
Snuggler said:
I dunno if anyone can help me with this, but I'm trying to recreate my NewEgg build at NCIXUS.com.

I can't seem to find half of the parts in my NewEgg cart, and I don't really know what would a good alternative to them.

Samsung HD103SJ - I must be doing it wrong, because I can't find any Samsung hard drives at the NCIXUS.com website.

I can't find any of these three items either:

73o6r.png


I know it's asking a lot, but if anyone could help me find these items or good alternatives on the NCIXUS website, I would appreciate it.
Click to expand...

looks like they don't sell Samsung drives .. they got a Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA3 6GB/S 7200RPM 64MB Cache 3.5IN Dual Proc Hard Drive OEM for $80, an Hitachi 1TB 7200 rpm for $68 ... depends on the brand you want I guess

they have both 500w and 600w Corsair CX series power supplies, no VX series there but the CX should work fine according to this cx430 review , though it is clearly a more budget aimed PSU

don´t see the Gskill value series but the 8gb F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL seems pretty cheap as well ... I paid 130 euros for Corsair Vengeance 2*4gb 1866 mhz lol

as for the motherboard it´s here

edit: this promo with the motherboard made me laugh out loud :
Get ASUS Black T-SHIRT *NCIX Bundle Promo Only* for FREE (a $20 value)
 
These are some good alternatives I found for the rest of the components: PSU RAM.

The PSU is an excelent one (seasonic builds corsair psus, too) and mushkin produces good memories. With the motherboard you can get it for $64.99 today ;)
 
DeathNote said:
Looking to find a good deal on a notebook for my Dad.

I'm sure any low end model would be significantly better than what he has:
AMD Turion 64 X2 Tl-56 1.8GHz
ATI Radeon X1270
Vista Home
1GB RAM

I don't need to play video games on it, but I want it to star up fast, have fast internet browsing, and have an HDMI out to play Netflix on a 1080p 32" LCD.

Can the TV output the sound?


Also, what's your opinion on warranties?
Click to expand...
Can you hold on for a Sandy Bridge laptop?
They are pretty much exactly built to do 1080p playback.
 
Snuggler said:
I dunno if anyone can help me with this, but I'm trying to recreate my NewEgg build at NCIXUS.com.

I can't seem to find half of the parts in my NewEgg cart, and I don't really know what would a good alternative to them.

Samsung HD103SJ - I must be doing it wrong, because I can't find any Samsung hard drives at the NCIXUS.com website.

I can't find any of these three items either:

73o6r.png


I know it's asking a lot, but if anyone could help me find these items or good alternatives on the NCIXUS website, I would appreciate it.
Click to expand...
They have a Seasonic power supply for about the same price. http://www.ncixus.com/products/52173/S12II 520/Seasonic Electronics/
 
Im a bit confused, how much mhz/ghz does the 2500K have per core in a 4 core cpu? My Phenom ii 4 core has 800mhz x4, which = 3.2ghz. I wanted to see if these new intel chips are similar in that regard.
 
"Im a bit confused, how much mhz/ghz does the 2500K have per core in a 4 core cpu? My Phenom ii 4 core has 800mhz x4, which = 3.2ghz. I wanted to see if these new intel chips are similar in that regard."


Whoa whoa whoa, no it doesn't, buddy. Your phenom ii has 4 cores that all run at a much higher clock speed than that. You don't divide the clock speed per core. Each core has that clock speed. The 2500k is 3.3ghz, 3.7ghz while in "turbo." Each of the cores has the same clock.

If your phenom ii cores are actually running at 800mhz, then something is wrong with your bios settings.
 
-viper- said:
To those who are using the 2500k with the Coolermaster 212+, what kind of temperatures are you getting?
Click to expand...

Idling around 29 to 34ish (because of that one core that's always off by a little...), to high 40's to mid-50's at load (4.0 GHz).

Because I am messing with things though, I have my vcore locked at 1.300, instead of allowing it to drop when idling. So it might be cooler at idle.

Edit: Just set my vcore back to offset. It idles about the same, 0.968 vcore, 1.6GHz, slightly lower temperatures. Under load, it goes to 1.264vcore, 4.0 GHz, 47 to 55 Celsius for temperature.
 
-viper- said:
To those who are using the 2500k with the Coolermaster 212+, what kind of temperatures are you getting?
Click to expand...

I'm getting similar temps to jiien's - idling at low 30s, mid 50s on load (4.2 GHz, all stock voltage settings).
 
What's everyone using to monitor voltages under load? I've tried CoreTemp and CPU-Z, but both are giving very different numbers.

CoreTemp reports the VID as being upwards of 1.36 under load, while CPU-Z lists the Core Voltage as roughly 1.31...

Most of the research I've done indicates that CoreTemp's VID number shouldn't actually be changing, and that it's a bug with CoreTemp. People seem to be recommending looking at the CPU-Z value as the accurate number, I just wanted to confirm with GAF before I go back to tweak my overclock some more.
 
TheKurgan said:
Since a lot of us seem to be buying or have already bought the Cooler Master 212+ cooler – how is everyone applying the thermal paste?

Last time I did this I applied a small amount directly to the processor and spread it out thinly with a credit card. But because of the groves in the direct pipe design of the 212+ should I do the 2 line method that was highlighted a few pages back?

Just wondering.
Click to expand...

I did it that way with a card, and so far it's been the most event I've applied with paste. Before I use to do it improperly, getting little bits coming off the edges when placing the my 212+. I did pull off it because at first I though there wasn't enough, but it actually had a perfect spread.
 
hehe fuck cable management :P nice cooler, its a noctua of some sort? judging by the fans

just took mine apart again to fit my cooler, dunno what i was doing last time but my old TRUE black fits perfectly when you spin it round to blow the air up, don't drink and build computers i guess. getting 41-46c full load after 1hr of prime95 at stock speeds, that'll do me only cost £3.50 for the adaptor kit :)
 
I wasn't sure where else to ask this, so I'll do it here.

I built my computer about a week ago right after SB came out and I got a GTX 460 and just installed MSI Afterburner and have started to OC it. I'm up to 850 core clock, 1700 shader clock, and memory at 2100. Under load in Just Cause 2 it hovers around 50% fan speed and 50-55 celsius. Is there any reason to not keep pushing higher? I'm not sure what kind of temps are ok for GPU vs CPUs, or if pushing cards too high can shorten their life span etc. So far it seems to have absolutely no problems whatsoever handling this so I figured might as well go higher right? :lol
 
So I got around to fiddling with my new rig yesterday and going through the steps to OC it when I noticed something odd. In MSi's new UEFI interface, my CPU was listed as having a clock speed of 20.26GHz! It also said that the CPU was currently at 50C, which was certainly alarming considering it was a cold boot and my fans were running at max. Odd, I thought, but let's try an OC. I turned off Turbo Boost and set the multiplier to 40x, saved and reset, went back into the BIOS and... nothing had changed. Or rather, all the changes I had made were still there, but the frequency reading was still wrong, the CPU wasn't taking any more voltage, and basically nothing was giving me a signal that this OC had actually happened. So, I said, let's see what happens in Windows. Windows boots up, and CPU-Z informs me that, in fact, the processor is running at stock speeds and voltage.

So I go to the MSi site and look for the latest BIOS revision. After some searching, I eventually find a newer release. Not only that, I find a forum thread detailing my exact problems. Apparently a small number of their boards are having this problem, and they have yet to find a fix for it. Still, I give the latest BIOS a shot. Now, when I want to save & reset, it simply freezes the entire BIOS interface and forces me to do a manual reboot. But hey, the CPU frequency reporting glitch went away.

Long story short, ASUS P8P67 Pro is on its way, and this POS is getting the royal RMA treatment. Until then, at least I can still use it to play games.
 
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