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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
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CreepingFear
Member
but it looks so cool.
I don't mind how it looks, minus the handles. They were obviously going for a mini Mac Pro look, which I love. I know their reasoning for the flexible handles(no flex would be more likely to crack I guess)but they feel cheap touching them in person.
Just replaced all my case fans and the CPU fan with Corsair 120, some quiet editions, some performance.
Excellent fans, only bummer is that one of them was making some extra noise. One of the top exhausts it seemed to be coming from, so I was able to unplug and sure enough, the noise is gone.
Will probably have to RMA, cause that will annoy the shit out of me. Can only imagine it would get worse and it was already pretty loud. Otherwise fairly impressive fans.
Connected the rear exhaust and (2) Front intakes in my Define R4 to the case controller. Bumping down from 12V to 7V and they are quiet as all hell. Temps don't seem to change either.
Excellent fans, only bummer is that one of them was making some extra noise. One of the top exhausts it seemed to be coming from, so I was able to unplug and sure enough, the noise is gone.
Will probably have to RMA, cause that will annoy the shit out of me. Can only imagine it would get worse and it was already pretty loud. Otherwise fairly impressive fans.
Connected the rear exhaust and (2) Front intakes in my Define R4 to the case controller. Bumping down from 12V to 7V and they are quiet as all hell. Temps don't seem to change either.
Infinite Justice
Member
I hear the GAF Buy and Sell thread is a nice option
#teamprodigyisoverrated
It's a ridiculously large case that has a small market for someone who wants small form factor mobile case where they definitely will use water cooling. Other than that it's an enormous waste of space and is larger than many mATX cases out there. I picked one up and ended up returning it a while ago. Not only is it impractical but it has an unstable base and I found the materials used ended up producing 3 separate shades of white so it looked cheap as well. Heck, I wouldn't be surprised if the Antec 300 had a smaller footprint than the prodigy.
I'm fucking shaking over here. Just saw a deal for a Asus 680 DCII TOP, with AC3, for (if I just translate the currency directly) $450. The normal price for that card is $680-740 here right now. Although, because of the exchange rate that sounds way worse than it is. $500 usually translates to 5000SEK when it comes to computer parts, but in reality 5000SEK is $750.
I'm so upgrading from my 6950 tomorrow! The 700 series can go and screw itself.
I'm so upgrading from my 6950 tomorrow! The 700 series can go and screw itself.
Celcius
°Temp. member
PC Forums or Craigslist > Ebay
Prodigy is pretty great for $80, but once I started really looking into ITX options, I found lots of better stuff.
However I LOVE the horizontal mounting of the motherboard! But yeah, I think the CaseLabs Mercury S3 and Fractal Node are both better options for different reasons.
So fucking excited for the Splash though
However I LOVE the horizontal mounting of the motherboard! But yeah, I think the CaseLabs Mercury S3 and Fractal Node are both better options for different reasons.
So fucking excited for the Splash though
A good poster
Banned
I also thought Craigslist is a better option.
I haven't kept up with PC hardware at all so I'm just looking for some input on this computer I'm looking at, these are the specs listed:
CPU: AMD FX-4300 3.8GHz 4-core
Motherboard: AMD 970
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 2GB GDDR5
Memory: Kingston HyperX 2x4GB, DDR3 1600MHz, CL9
Hard drive: Western Digital 1TB Caviar Green, 3.5", Sata3, IntelliPower, 64MB
DVD: Asus DRW-24B5ST SATA
Case: CoolerMaster Silencio 550 ATX
Power: CoolerMaster GX 650W
Windows 7 Home Premium 64b
Any thoughts? The game I really want to play is Witcher 2, but obviously some current games as well and maybe some upcoming games.
CPU: AMD FX-4300 3.8GHz 4-core
Motherboard: AMD 970
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 2GB GDDR5
Memory: Kingston HyperX 2x4GB, DDR3 1600MHz, CL9
Hard drive: Western Digital 1TB Caviar Green, 3.5", Sata3, IntelliPower, 64MB
DVD: Asus DRW-24B5ST SATA
Case: CoolerMaster Silencio 550 ATX
Power: CoolerMaster GX 650W
Windows 7 Home Premium 64b
Any thoughts? The game I really want to play is Witcher 2, but obviously some current games as well and maybe some upcoming games.
How much would it cost?
939.00
I don't doubt that it could be cheaper if I did it myself, but I'm really not in a mood to build a computer right now.
If this is grossly overpriced I'll consider options though.
Since you don't want to build yourself I doubt that you'll find something much better than that. An i5 would've been a better choice for CPU, but other than that it looks good enough for your needs. You could always look for special deals at the good computer shops where you live, some place usually has some good deals on their pre-built PC's that can actually be pretty good.
I would get another HDD though, either a cheap SSD or a 7200rpm 1TB drive to have Windows on. The "Green" drives are pretty slow.
Eyemus Lutt
Member
I have a weird graphics card question about some old PC that I want to buy to give to my little nephew so he can play some games on low settings (warcraft 3, age of empires type game or newer games on low settings.
First is this:
Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 processor
3.33 GHz, 6 MB L2 cache, 1333 MHz FSB
Intel Q45 Express Graphics Card
NVIDIA Quadro NVS 290 256MB DH PCIe x16 graphics card
Memory - 6GB (3 x 2GB), and up to 16GB (dual channel symmetric) DDR3 Synch Dram Non-ECC
Second is this:
Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 processor
3.33 GHz, 6 MB L2 cache, 1333 MHz FSB
Intel Q45 Express chipset featuring Intel GMA 4500 DirectX 10 graphics
Memory - 4GB (dual channel symmetric) DDR2 Synch Dram PC2-6400 (800-MHz) Non ECC (2 x 2GB)
I'm getting these for practically nothing so I need to know which is better suited to more recent games and can maybe be upgraded at a later time with a better graphics card.
First is this:
Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 processor
3.33 GHz, 6 MB L2 cache, 1333 MHz FSB
Intel Q45 Express Graphics Card
NVIDIA Quadro NVS 290 256MB DH PCIe x16 graphics card
Memory - 6GB (3 x 2GB), and up to 16GB (dual channel symmetric) DDR3 Synch Dram Non-ECC
Second is this:
Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 processor
3.33 GHz, 6 MB L2 cache, 1333 MHz FSB
Intel Q45 Express chipset featuring Intel GMA 4500 DirectX 10 graphics
Memory - 4GB (dual channel symmetric) DDR2 Synch Dram PC2-6400 (800-MHz) Non ECC (2 x 2GB)
I'm getting these for practically nothing so I need to know which is better suited to more recent games and can maybe be upgraded at a later time with a better graphics card.
Anton668
Member
a quick google indicates neither for new games but maybe for AoE
just going off the 6GB DDR3, the first one
Irobot82
Member
The 13.5 beta 2 driver are also out and they fix single monitor xfire configurations.
A good poster
Banned
What would last me longer: 7970 Ghz or Crossfire 7950s?
Anton668
Member
I think most would say at this point to avoid crossfire. least till june(?) when the driver fix is due out. and even then wait till its actually know if it works or not...
A good poster
Banned
Sounds good.
Anton668
Member
well... now hold on....
for sure? all across the board or only select cards?
twentytwo22
Member
Stupid question time, since all of my stuff is coming tomorrow and I'm getting ready
1. My mobo has 1x SATA 3 and 3x SATA 2 connectors. I'm getting a 1 TB HDD and a 64 GB SSD for Windows 7. Both drives claim to support "6 Gb/s". Do I use SATA 3 for the HDD or the SSD?
2. Having two hard drives, will I need to do anything special to make sure they are properly "configured" or don't interfere with one another? Of course, I want my SSD to be my C: drive and my HDD to be D:. I watched a Newegg building tutorial where they first booted with only the SSD, installed Windows, turned it off, then plugged in the HDD. Is it as simple as that or are there physical jumpers (is this even the right word?) on the HDD/SSD itself that need to be configured?
Thanks!
1. My mobo has 1x SATA 3 and 3x SATA 2 connectors. I'm getting a 1 TB HDD and a 64 GB SSD for Windows 7. Both drives claim to support "6 Gb/s". Do I use SATA 3 for the HDD or the SSD?
2. Having two hard drives, will I need to do anything special to make sure they are properly "configured" or don't interfere with one another? Of course, I want my SSD to be my C: drive and my HDD to be D:. I watched a Newegg building tutorial where they first booted with only the SSD, installed Windows, turned it off, then plugged in the HDD. Is it as simple as that or are there physical jumpers (is this even the right word?) on the HDD/SSD itself that need to be configured?
Thanks!
The Broken Ska Record
Member
Stupid question time, since all of my stuff is coming tomorrow and I'm getting ready
1. My mobo has 1x SATA 3 and 3x SATA 2 connectors. I'm getting a 1 TB HDD and a 64 GB SSD for Windows 7. Both drives claim to support "6 Gb/s". Do I use SATA 3 for the HDD or the SSD?
2. Having two hard drives, will I need to do anything special to make sure they are properly "configured" or don't interfere with one another? Of course, I want my SSD to be my C: drive and my HDD to be D:. I watched a Newegg building tutorial where they first booted with only the SSD, installed Windows, turned it off, then plugged in the HDD. Is it as simple as that or are there physical jumpers (is this even the right word?) on the HDD/SSD itself that need to be configured?
Thanks!
1. I'd recommend plugging the SSD into the SATA 3 to benefit from the higher transfer speed and connecting the HDD into the SATA 2.
2. You can connect both drives at the same time, but make sure you configure which is the boot drive through the BIOS. It's a simple step, but if you don't want to do it, you can just hold off on adding the HDD until you install Windows.
And no, there isn't anything special you need to do. Well, there maybe one if your external HDD isn't recognized as the D drive, you can change it through Disk Management.
twentytwo22
Member
Great, thank you.
One more question -- With the SSD for Windows only, is there some system-wide way to default the installation of EVERYTHING else to the D: (HDD) drive?
Stupid question time, since all of my stuff is coming tomorrow and I'm getting ready
1. My mobo has 1x SATA 3 and 3x SATA 2 connectors. I'm getting a 1 TB HDD and a 64 GB SSD for Windows 7. Both drives claim to support "6 Gb/s". Do I use SATA 3 for the HDD or the SSD?
2. Having two hard drives, will I need to do anything special to make sure they are properly "configured" or don't interfere with one another? Of course, I want my SSD to be my C: drive and my HDD to be D:. I watched a Newegg building tutorial where they first booted with only the SSD, installed Windows, turned it off, then plugged in the HDD. Is it as simple as that or are there physical jumpers (is this even the right word?) on the HDD/SSD itself that need to be configured?
Thanks!
1) SSD in SATA3 port. HDD can't even max out SATA1. HDD support for SATA2/3 speeds are for "marketing".
2) SATA are 1 device per port. Their are no jumpers (master/slave) like the old IDE. It's more simple, you don't select the wrong drive, to only have SSD when installing Windows. Then, connect the other drives afterward.
cpp_is_king
Member
I posted about this a while ago, but no response (which I kind of expected). But it's starting to get more annoying.
When I bring my computer out of sleep, it takes FOREVER. Like 2 minutes before I'm off the black screen and can see my desktop. Most of the time, probably 90% or more, the keyboard and mouse don't get power after resuming from sleep and I have to unplug them and replug them in multiple times before it works.
How should I even go about diagnosing it? As far as I can tell, the only possibilities are:
a) The motherboard
b) The video card (seems unrelated, but for some reason this never happened until I got my new video card)
c) The power supply
d) A bug in the BIOS
I don't have replacements for each of these parts that I can just swap in and try random things, and changing the power supply in particular is a huge chore. Should I just contact customer support for my motherboard (ASUS)?
When I bring my computer out of sleep, it takes FOREVER. Like 2 minutes before I'm off the black screen and can see my desktop. Most of the time, probably 90% or more, the keyboard and mouse don't get power after resuming from sleep and I have to unplug them and replug them in multiple times before it works.
How should I even go about diagnosing it? As far as I can tell, the only possibilities are:
a) The motherboard
b) The video card (seems unrelated, but for some reason this never happened until I got my new video card)
c) The power supply
d) A bug in the BIOS
I don't have replacements for each of these parts that I can just swap in and try random things, and changing the power supply in particular is a huge chore. Should I just contact customer support for my motherboard (ASUS)?
Team #seasonicmakeSFX!
Seriously, that could really change ITX cases with small PSUs as silent and good as Seasonic can make them. They only have one OEM 300W as far as I know. The other ones out there are ok, but noisy when idling. 450W is enough for any ITX computer though it would be neat with a 550ishW for the 690 and 7990.
BrassMonkey1010
Member
Hey everyone, built the new PC tonight, everything is running great. I just have one odd question...my case is the define R4, and for some reason the led near the power button I blinking like crazy, almost like its in sync with the HDD. Is this supposed to happen?
Sorry for grammar, on phone.
Sorry for grammar, on phone.
Celcius
°Temp. member
As far as small pc's, the Falcon NW Tiki has an interesting design:
http://www.falcon-nw.com/desktops/tiki
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6763/...actor-geforce-titan-in-falcon-northwests-tiki
Super slim and also fits a Titan
http://www.falcon-nw.com/desktops/tiki
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6763/...actor-geforce-titan-in-falcon-northwests-tiki
Super slim and also fits a Titan
It might be the HD activity indicator. It's supposed to blink whenever the hard drive is used.
Man, those random issues just suck. The obvious thing is the power issue. If the previous card had lower power req, the new one might prevent enough power from flowing. It might also be worth to check your MB model and see if anyone else might have similar issues around the internet.
Garou
Member
Did you put the Power-LED cable on the HDD-LED pins on the motherboard by accident?
BrassMonkey1010
Member
I may have...it won't hurt anything will it? Downloading a bunch of games overnight, don't really want to turn off and change right now.
Shame there are no cases made with a GPU in that orientation in mind. So much dead space forced into ITX cases made to fit a high end GPU.
It's fine. Just your power led will blink a lot and start to annoy you
cpp_is_king
Member
Yea. FWIW it's a 600W power supply, and the motherboard is an ASUS P9X79 Pro. The old video card was a Radeon 7970 and the new video card is a GTX 680. From what I can tell the new card probably has a lower power requirement than the old card, but I was told the 600W shoudl be sufficient regardless. I got burned on these kind of random issues before and they really piss me off because I can't just go throwing around hundreds of dollars here and there randomly replacing components hoping they fix stuff.
I emailed EVGA support and they told me to configure Windows to not automatically go to sleep after idle time. What an idiotic suggestion, considering that someone else could still manually put my computer to sleep. Not to mention that's like a fundamental feature of computers. He also tried to tell me that "Sleep is originally designed for laptops and doesn't work well on desktops". I think he was thinking of Hibernate. Almost everyone uses Sleep on desktops.
I bought ready made from OCUK (don't shoot me) on one of their Friday offers. I think it was about £1000 when I finished with it, maybe £30 over.
Bitfenix prodigy (white)
8Gb ram
3570K overclocked to 4GHz (limited due to gigabyte z77 motherboard)
Corsair H60 liquid cooler
Gigabyte 7950 3GB
1TB HDD for storage
240GB Samsung 840 SSD for OS/some games
Bluray drive
Windows 8
No keyboard/mouse, already had those.
Compact, quiet, very happy with it.
I was going to get an SFF case to use in the living room as a HTPC but most of them were ugly or didn't have enough room. I was seriously considering an X51 but it didn't have enough hard drive space, I know NAS blah blah but still. If you want a beautiful HTPC case with enough room for a powerful card and hard drives then I suggest the Node 605. Its not small by any means, its as big as a stereo receiver but it has a great minimalist styling that doesn't stand out in a living room. It gets the wife's seal of approval.
I homed in on this but the reviews were mediocre, citing poor cooling. So I ended up with a prodigy.
Had a silverstone LC17 before that - that was a nice minimal AV receiver style too and nice and quiet once I'd changed out the fans
1st Course
Member
The GTX 660 (non-Ti) is probably the best $200 card you can pick up atm. Also if you're willing to wait a little bit more the 700 series should be out in a month or two.
Is it a pre-built machine?
MMBosstones86
Member
Any reason to not get Seasonic M12II? It's down to $75ish right now and my non-modular PSU is just pissing me off because cables.
I'd rather have their 550w Gold G Series for the same money
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151119
MMBosstones86
Member
only difference is lower wattage, but higher quality..right?
It looks like they have the exact same computer but with an i5 and it seems like they are flexible with parts so I'm going to see about getting the hdd switched.
Thanks for the input.
Stated wattage is lower but it can pull over 600w under full load. It'll be quieter, more efficient and higher quality.
No brainer for me when they're the same price as it's better in every single way.
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