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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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Stated wattage is lower but it can pull over 600w under full load. It'll be quieter, more efficient and higher quality.

No brainer for me when they're the same price as it's better in every single way.

Ordered, thanks. Love this thread. Helped me build my first last year and helping me refresh it this year. You guys are awesome.
 

Dave_6

Member
I posted about this a while ago, but no response (which I kind of expected). But it's starting to get more annoying.

When I bring my computer out of sleep, it takes FOREVER. Like 2 minutes before I'm off the black screen and can see my desktop. Most of the time, probably 90% or more, the keyboard and mouse don't get power after resuming from sleep and I have to unplug them and replug them in multiple times before it works.

How should I even go about diagnosing it? As far as I can tell, the only possibilities are:

a) The motherboard
b) The video card (seems unrelated, but for some reason this never happened until I got my new video card)
c) The power supply
d) A bug in the BIOS

I don't have replacements for each of these parts that I can just swap in and try random things, and changing the power supply in particular is a huge chore. Should I just contact customer support for my motherboard (ASUS)?

I had a similar issue with my new build and it frustrated me to no end. Unfortunately all I did to fix it was turn sleep mode off. I know that probably wasn't the proper thing to do but I have not had one issue with it since. I'm a noob to PC gaming so I had no idea where/how to fix it so I just turned it off.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Hello. I seek a little bit of advice.

About a month and a half ago I upgraded my GTX 570 for a GTX 670 2GB. I was mostly happy with this purchase. The card is great. The reason I upgraded was, as always, I like to stick with a setup for as long as possible and not do incremental bullshit. This is especially true as we're on the fringe of next gen. I know I'm going to have to upgrade some day, but I'd like to do so ~half way through or whatever.

However, the smell of the GTX 770 has me thinking. What is the probability of the rumours being true, and would it be worth going for that card instead?

I ask because even though the GTX 770 is unlikely to be some massive leap over my 670, I figure the RAM boost could be very valuable in the long run. If it's 2GB, it's not worth it. But if it's 4GB of RAM that really could pay over the next generation if games quickly become high resolution texture heavy.

I also notice that, going off NewEgg, AU/US prices are extremely close. In fact, my GTX 670 is a few bucks more expensive in the US than here. Otherwise they're more or less a match. Which means if a GTX 770 is affordable in the US, then it will be affordable here.

So here's what I'm thinking: sell my GTX 670 fairly early to get close to maximum profit for it. It's literally shy of two months old, so I should get almost exactly what I paid. I also need to sell my GTX 570. It won't go for much, but I'll get something. The combined cost of those two really should make up a GTX 770, right?

I suppose I'm asking for advice on this plan, if it seems like something to strongly consider. What kind of price are we expecting for a 770 at launch?
 

Shambles

Member
Hello. I seek a little bit of advice.

About a month and a half ago I upgraded my GTX 570 for a GTX 670 2GB. I was mostly happy with this purchase. The card is great. The reason I upgraded was, as always, I like to stick with a setup for as long as possible and not do incremental bullshit. This is especially true as we're on the fringe of next gen. I know I'm going to have to upgrade some day, but I'd like to do so ~half way through or whatever.

However, the smell of the GTX 770 has me thinking. What is the probability of the rumours being true, and would it be worth going for that card instead?

I ask because even though the GTX 770 is unlikely to be some massive leap over my 670, I figure the RAM boost could be very valuable in the long run. If it's 2GB, it's not worth it. But if it's 4GB of RAM that really could pay over the next generation if games quickly become high resolution texture heavy.

I also notice that, going off NewEgg, AU/US prices are extremely close. In fact, my GTX 670 is a few bucks more expensive in the US than here. Otherwise they're more or less a match. Which means if a GTX 770 is affordable in the US, then it will be affordable here.

So here's what I'm thinking: sell my GTX 670 fairly early to get close to maximum profit for it. It's literally shy of two months old, so I should get almost exactly what I paid. I also need to sell my GTX 570. It won't go for much, but I'll get something. The combined cost of those two really should make up a GTX 770, right?

I suppose I'm asking for advice on this plan, if it seems like something to strongly consider. What kind of price are we expecting for a 770 at launch?

It's still a lot of speculation but I'm of the school of thought that by the time 2GB video cards will be a hinderance we'll be 2-3 years into the next console cycle and you'll be buying a new GPU anyways. I have no worries about the longevity of my own 2GB GTX 670 and especially not about other lower end cards I have with 2GB of memory (7870 & GTX 650 Ti Boost) since you'll be GPU limited long before you're memory limited.

I am a little confused though. You start your post saying you like to stick to your gear long term but you also upgrade once already from a single generation jump and are thinking about doing it again? Or do you mean you want to get something now that you'll be happy with in the long term (You never will be, welcome to PC gaming) so you can stop jumping around GPUs?
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Cheers. Bad wording on my part. I've always taken the approach with PC hardware to do a big, new purchase, then a couple of years later pick up a new GPU to keep my head above each generation. Rinse, repeat.

I ask about the GTX 770 because I just did the GPU upgrade part fairly recently, grabbing that GTX 670 2GB. But since it's so damn new I was thinking that maybe I'd be better off putting it back on the market and instead taking a bigger step with a GTX 770 4GB or something. I know that would be incremental, but I don't really count it as such as I only just got my GTX 670. It would be more like...a revision of my long term plan!

And yeah, VRAM limitations is my main concern. I'm still running an i5 2500K @4.3GHz, and 8GB system memory, so a GPU upgrade is all I really wanted. I'm happy to sit at 1920x1080, and don't even need to hit 60fps (definitely 30+fps though!), with game settings maxed out. And if I can do this for a good two-three years that would be fantastic. I just don't want to hit a VRAM bottleneck early.
 

mkenyon

Banned
The 770 is a rebranded 680. Not worth it.

There's very little real evidence of the 4GB Kepler cards performing noticeably better when VRAM is an issue. The 670 and 680 (which means 760Ti and 770) are very limited on memory bandwidth in comparison to the AMD offerings as well as Titan.

In terms of a solid purchase to last a long while, I think the Titan LE (rumored to be the 780) would be the best bet.
 

Demon Ice

Banned
And yeah, VRAM limitations is my main concern. I'm still running an i5 2500K @4.3GHz, and 8GB system memory, so a GPU upgrade is all I really wanted. I'm happy to sit at 1920x1080, and don't even need to hit 60fps (definitely 30+fps though!), with game settings maxed out. And if I can do this for a good two-three years that would be fantastic. I just don't want to hit a VRAM bottleneck early.

I would be astonished to see a 2 GB card hit VRAM issues at 1080p. The only situations I've ever seen more than 2 GB of VRAM come into play are in multimonitor setups with massive resolutions, as seen in this review by HardOCP, where the 2 GB GTX 680s have issues running at that massive resolution with added AA.

Edit: People will mention a heavily modded Skyrim hitting a 2 GB VRAM cap but I have no idea what mods those guys are running, I had well over 100 mods running on Skyrim, including an ENB and a very detailed texture mod, and I was getting playable frame rates on a 1 GB 5770 with a 128 bit bus.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Heavy graphical mods are always the exception to the rule. Because of the ad hoc nature of mods, the way data is streamed in isn't managed the way a game is straight from the dev.
 
Hello, good people. I'm in the planning stages of building a mega Steambox/media server for my TV, and, due to the configuration in my house, I'm considering some sort of wireless video connection between box and TV, e.g., this one. Concerns are the usual: lag, choppiness, interference with other electronics.

Does anyone have experience with this for gaming? Do these things actually work well?
 

kennah

Member
Hello, good people. I'm in the planning stages of building a mega Steambox/media server for my TV, and, due to the configuration in my house, I'm considering some sort of wireless video connection between box and TV, e.g., this one. Concerns are the usual: lag, choppiness, interference with other electronics.

Does anyone have experience with this for gaming? Do these things actually work well?

No.... Just... No... Fine for watching movies or something, but you'd never want to game on it.
 
Hello, good people. I'm in the planning stages of building a mega Steambox/media server for my TV, and, due to the configuration in my house, I'm considering some sort of wireless video connection between box and TV, e.g., this one. Concerns are the usual: lag, choppiness, interference with other electronics.

Does anyone have experience with this for gaming? Do these things actually work well?

For that price, couldn't you wire some HDMI relatively hidden? I would imagine wireless is a bad route.
 

Demon Ice

Banned
Just a heads up for people that aren't entirely comfortable building their own system from scratch, Digital Storm just made available a new line of systems called "Vanquish" which are pre-configured at 4 different price points, and are advertised as "nearly the same price as building it yourself."

I checked this claim against the highest end configuration, which includes an i7 3770k (OC'd 4.0 - 4.4 Ghz), 8 GB DDR3 1600 RAM, 2 GB GTX 660 Ti, 120 GB SSD + 1 TB 7200 RPM storage drive, and a closed loop Corsair H60 120 mm water cooler on the CPU for $1399. I configured an identical build on Newegg for $1370 (including the OS).

I'm guessing they're trying to sell off excess stock before Haswell and the upcoming GTX 7 series cards land, so it may be something to keep an eye on. The case is a Corsair Carbide 300R, so plenty of room for upgrades.

Edit:
Personally my biggest issues with it are the choice of motherboard (ASUS P8Z77-V LX) and PSU (Corsair CX series 600 watt) do not allow for a potential SLI upgrade. If you aren't interested in SLI, this looks like a pretty great build for the price. And there's always the chance they will update the build in the coming months.
 

kharma45

Member
Just a heads up for people that aren't entirely comfortable building their own system from scratch, Digital Storm just made available a new line of systems called "Vanquish" which are pre-configured at 4 different price points, and are advertised as "nearly the same price as building it yourself."

I checked this claim against the highest end configuration, which includes an i7 3770k (OC'd 4.0 - 4.4 Ghz), 8 GB DDR3 1600 RAM, 2 GB GTX 660 Ti, 120 GB SSD + 1 TB 7200 RPM storage drive, and a closed loop 120 mm water cooler on the CPU for $1399. I configured an identical build on Newegg for $1370 (including the OS).

I'm guessing they're trying to sell off excess stock before Haswell and the upcoming GTX 7 series cards land, so it may be something to keep an eye on. The case is a Corsair Carbide 300R, so plenty of room for upgrades.

Seems all good bar the Corsair CX PSU, was hoping for something a bit more quality but it's not the worst.
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
Just a heads up for people that aren't entirely comfortable building their own system from scratch, Digital Storm just made available a new line of systems called "Vanquish" which are pre-configured at 4 different price points, and are advertised as "nearly the same price as building it yourself."

I checked this claim against the highest end configuration, which includes an i7 3770k (OC'd 4.0 - 4.4 Ghz), 8 GB DDR3 1600 RAM, 2 GB GTX 660 Ti, 120 GB SSD + 1 TB 7200 RPM storage drive, and a closed loop 120 mm water cooler on the CPU for $1399. I configured an identical build on Newegg for $1370 (including the OS).

I'm guessing they're trying to sell off excess stock before Haswell and the upcoming GTX 7 series cards land, so it may be something to keep an eye on. The case is a Corsair Carbide 300R, so plenty of room for upgrades.

Personally my biggest issues with it are the choice of motherboard (ASUS P8Z77-V LX) and PSU (Corsair CX series 600 watt) do not allow for a potential SLI upgrade. If you aren't interested in SLI, this looks like a pretty great build for the price. And there's always the chance they will update the build in the coming months.

That's cool.

Damn I've never heard of the Digital Storm Bolt, even as a person that builds their PC's themselves, that looks sweet.
 
Just a heads up for people that aren't entirely comfortable building their own system from scratch, Digital Storm just made available a new line of systems called "Vanquish" which are pre-configured at 4 different price points, and are advertised as "nearly the same price as building it yourself."

I checked this claim against the highest end configuration, which includes an i7 3770k (OC'd 4.0 - 4.4 Ghz), 8 GB DDR3 1600 RAM, 2 GB GTX 660 Ti, 120 GB SSD + 1 TB 7200 RPM storage drive, and a closed loop Corsair H60 120 mm water cooler on the CPU for $1399. I configured an identical build on Newegg for $1370 (including the OS).

I'm guessing they're trying to sell off excess stock before Haswell and the upcoming GTX 7 series cards land, so it may be something to keep an eye on. The case is a Corsair Carbide 300R, so plenty of room for upgrades.

Edit:
Personally my biggest issues with it are the choice of motherboard (ASUS P8Z77-V LX) and PSU (Corsair CX series 600 watt) do not allow for a potential SLI upgrade. If you aren't interested in SLI, this looks like a pretty great build for the price. And there's always the chance they will update the build in the coming months.

Does that price factor in shipping? I imagine shipping a whole PC is pretty dicey (and pricey) compared to individual components, or is that not usually the case?
 

Demon Ice

Banned
The iBuyPower Revolt is a crazy good deal too. They even put a fully fledged Z77 ITX in it.

It is a great deal for an SFF. My distrust of the company aside, the biggest reason I wouldn't go with the Revolt is how big of a pain in the ass it is to upgrade:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVOVmTpiaOo

Does that price factor in shipping? I imagine shipping a whole PC is pretty dicey (and pricey) compared to individual components, or is that not usually the case?

I'm not sure what the shipping costs are, both prices I compared are before shipping charges. From what I can tell, DS packs their systems very securely, and they have a full year warranty standard so if anything arrives damaged or dies within the first year of ownership, they will replace it.
 
That's cracked it. Can't thank you enough, some stellar advice right there.

In fact I'd recommend 7870XT owners follow the above steps, because there is some down right funky shit going on with this card. Using default settings it mostly sticks to around 501Mhz, very occasionally reaching 925. Upping the power by +20% and the Mhz by a measly 5 resulted in a 5-10 fps boost, and GPU-Z now shows the correct 925/980Mhz fluctuation.

Simply put, the card does not function correctly at default settings. This card might be the exception, but it's worth checking if you own one.

I'm running it at 1165Mhz at the moment and the temps seem OK, no artifacting so far.

Thanks again for the help, would be banging my head against the desk now if it weren't for you.

OK, so a bit of an update on this situation since someone with a 7870xt might, you know, have the same problem as me or something.

Anyway, although Trixx finally allowed me to overclock, I was still unhappy with the fluctuating clocks. Turns out Afterburner will work with the beta version, so I went back to that. Finding this thread helped me understand that it was the BIOS to blame. My Joker 7870 XT came with a 031 bios, and flashing it to 028 (check the OP of that thread) allowed me to run at a constant clock. Seems the 031 bios is just borked. Got me a nice ~5 fps boost with the same overclock.
 

News Bot

Banned
Just opened up my PC and found that the fans on my HIS IceQ 7970 aren't even running. That explains how it managed to reach 90 degrees.

Anyone got any ideas? :(
 
Hello. I seek a little bit of advice.

About a month and a half ago I upgraded my GTX 570 for a GTX 670 2GB. I was mostly happy with this purchase. The card is great. The reason I upgraded was, as always, I like to stick with a setup for as long as possible and not do incremental bullshit. This is especially true as we're on the fringe of next gen. I know I'm going to have to upgrade some day, but I'd like to do so ~half way through or whatever.

However, the smell of the GTX 770 has me thinking. What is the probability of the rumours being true, and would it be worth going for that card instead?

I ask because even though the GTX 770 is unlikely to be some massive leap over my 670, I figure the RAM boost could be very valuable in the long run. If it's 2GB, it's not worth it. But if it's 4GB of RAM that really could pay over the next generation if games quickly become high resolution texture heavy.

I also notice that, going off NewEgg, AU/US prices are extremely close. In fact, my GTX 670 is a few bucks more expensive in the US than here. Otherwise they're more or less a match. Which means if a GTX 770 is affordable in the US, then it will be affordable here.

So here's what I'm thinking: sell my GTX 670 fairly early to get close to maximum profit for it. It's literally shy of two months old, so I should get almost exactly what I paid. I also need to sell my GTX 570. It won't go for much, but I'll get something. The combined cost of those two really should make up a GTX 770, right?

I suppose I'm asking for advice on this plan, if it seems like something to strongly consider. What kind of price are we expecting for a 770 at launch?
I also think the jump in VRAM usage isn't going to occur nearly as quickly as we're thinking.

I mean, we've of course got the launch window games that are basically going to be slightly better looking than 360 and PS3 games, but I honestly have the feeling that we might have 2 or so years ahead of us where developers release their games on both PS4/720 and PS3/360, with slightly better assets, like we see in PC games today. I really don't think publishers are going to allow developers to abandon the established market base of the PS3 and 360 so quickly.
 

Hawk269

Member
Added a few little things to my rig...

Samsung SB970 S27B970D 27-Inch Screen LED-Lit Monitor 2560x1440p
WD Black 4 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, 7200 RPM, SATA III, 64 MB Cache, 5 Year WD4001FAEX
WD Blue 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, 7200 RPM, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache - WD10EZEX
ASUS BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS 12X Blu-ray Internal Burner Drive with Disc Encryption - Black
ASUS XONAR D1 -7.1 Channel PCI Audio Card Sound Card
Logitech Wireless Gaming Headset G930 with 7.1 Surround Sound

I decided to go with the Samsung 1440p over other brands, especially the Overload due to Warranty and the Service. The other nice thing, the Monitor came with it being already calibrated. First form out of the box was the calibration results, listing all the tests and adjustments they made to the monitor before boxing it up. Plus it just looks f'n fantastic. The built in stand that tilts and raises up and down is just great. It is just one hell of a good looking monitor that stands out above from the rest.

I had PM'd Smokey and his comment of "you are going to be blown away" was spot on. Games just look amazing at this resolution and running them at full settings at rock solid 60fps is just WOW! :)

Samsung-Series-9-LED-Monitor.jpg
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hopefully will update a few things in the OP this weekend. Might not be reflected in image since probably won't be completely done.
Added a few little things to my rig...

I had PM'd Smokey and his comment of "you are going to be blown away" was spot on. Games just look amazing at this resolution and running them at full settings at rock solid barely acceptable 60fps is just WOW! :)
Kidding, it looks real nice I'm sure.
 

Azzurri

Member
Added a few little things to my rig...

Samsung SB970 S27B970D 27-Inch Screen LED-Lit Monitor 2560x1440p
WD Black 4 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, 7200 RPM, SATA III, 64 MB Cache, 5 Year WD4001FAEX
WD Blue 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, 7200 RPM, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache - WD10EZEX
ASUS BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS 12X Blu-ray Internal Burner Drive with Disc Encryption - Black
ASUS XONAR D1 -7.1 Channel PCI Audio Card Sound Card
Logitech Wireless Gaming Headset G930 with 7.1 Surround Sound

I decided to go with the Samsung 1440p over other brands, especially the Overload due to Warranty and the Service. The other nice thing, the Monitor came with it being already calibrated. First form out of the box was the calibration results, listing all the tests and adjustments they made to the monitor before boxing it up. Plus it just looks f'n fantastic. The built in stand that tilts and raises up and down is just great. It is just one hell of a good looking monitor that stands out above from the rest.

I had PM'd Smokey and his comment of "you are going to be blown away" was spot on. Games just look amazing at this resolution and running them at full settings at rock solid 60fps is just WOW! :)

http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh596/Stateless269/Samsung-Series-9-LED-Monitor.jpg[/IM][/QUOTE]


I have this monitor too and I love it.
 

Hawk269

Member
Hopefully will update a few things in the OP this weekend. Might not be reflected in image since probably won't be completely done.

Kidding, it looks real nice I'm sure.

LMAO...yeah, I was thinking of 120mhz vs. 1440p, but higher resolution won out for me. I am not a competitive FPS gamer, but I am a graphics whore, so that is why! lol

What is even funnier, the one game that is impressing me the most out of the ones I have is the old Need for Speed Hot Pursuit. I mean, the game is just amazingly colorful and at 1440p just looks gorgeous. Still some jaggies since the game never implemented any form of proper AA, but going to 1440p did clean it up from 1080p.
 

Hawk269

Member
I have this monitor too and I love it.

What setting do you use for it? I am using the "calibration" setting since that is the one they configured and did the tweaking at the factory. It does look amazing and colors are so impactful. I have a high end Sony 55" 3dTV and while amazing, it just does not produce colors to the level of this monitor.
 

Azzurri

Member
What setting do you use for it? I am using the "calibration" setting since that is the one they configured and did the tweaking at the factory. It does look amazing and colors are so impactful. I have a high end Sony 55" 3dTV and while amazing, it just does not produce colors to the level of this monitor.

High Bright but I played around with the contrast and brightness.
 

LCGeek

formerly sane
LMAO...yeah, I was thinking of 120mhz vs. 1440p, but higher resolution won out for me. I am not a competitive FPS gamer, but I am a graphics whore, so that is why! lol

What is even funnier, the one game that is impressing me the most out of the ones I have is the old Need for Speed Hot Pursuit. I mean, the game is just amazingly colorful and at 1440p just looks gorgeous. Still some jaggies since the game never implemented any form of proper AA, but going to 1440p did clean it up from 1080p.

Unless you're on amd that is a quick fix with nvidia inspector. HP 2010 looks amazing with ssgaa.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
What setting do you use for it? I am using the "calibration" setting since that is the one they configured and did the tweaking at the factory. It does look amazing and colors are so impactful. I have a high end Sony 55" 3dTV and while amazing, it just does not produce colors to the level of this monitor.
The colors on my Samsung 120Hz are very nice considering it's 120Hz. It's my first glossy panel and I see the appeal if you control your light.

Smoothness is way more worth it to me though :)
 
What do you guys think of this prospective rig? Any changes I should make?

Case: CoolerMaster HAF 912
Mobo: AsRock Z77 Extreme4 (will probably buy new mobo coming with Haswell)
GPU: Vapor-X Sapphire AMD Radeon 7970 Ghz Ed. 3gb (might buy GTX780 instead)
PSU: SeaSonic M12II 650W
CPU: Intel i5 3570K (will probably buy Haswell i7 instead)
RAM: G.SKILL Ares Series 2 x 4gb 240pin 1866
HDD: WD Blue 7200 RPM 1 TB
Keyboard: Cooler MAster CM Storm CherryMX Blue Switch
Mouse: Cooler Master CM Storm Xornet
Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
OS: Windows 7
Fan: EVO 212 Coolermaster
Monitor (already owned:) ASUS VH236H
SSD: Samsung Pro 840 256gb

AM I READY FOR MASTER RACE
 

kharma45

Member
What do you guys think of this prospective rig? Any changes I should make?

Case: CoolerMaster HAF 912
Mobo: AsRock Z77 Extreme4 (will probably buy new mobo coming with Haswell)
GPU: Vapor-X Sapphire AMD Radeon 7970 Ghz Ed. 3gb (might buy GTX780 instead)
PSU: SeaSonic M12II 650W
CPU: Intel i5 3570K (will probably buy Haswell i7 instead)
RAM: G.SKILL Ares Series 2 x 4gb 240pin 1866
HDD: WD Blue 7200 RPM 1 TB
Keyboard: Cooler MAster CM Storm CherryMX Blue Switch
Mouse: Cooler Master CM Storm Xornet
Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST
OS: Windows 7
Fan: EVO 212 Coolermaster
Monitor (already owned:) ASUS VH236H
SSD: Samsung Pro 840 256gb

AM I READY FOR MASTER RACE

1866MHz RAM is a waste of money. Just change to 1600MHz unless there is like $5 in it.

Also if you're in the USA change to the Seasonic G 550 I have linked to at the top of the page if you're using 50ppp. It's the same price on Newegg as the one you've chosen but is better in every single way.
 

M3z_

Member
At this point if you are starting from scratch and you can spare the dough on the 780 I would wait and see what kind of power the 780 has if it is actually released next month.
 

zeelman

Member
Newegg's CPU Combo deal was too tempting, so I decided to buy a new computer now instead of waiting for Haswell. I'm putting the memory and (barely used) disc drive from my current computer into the new one. I bought some of the parts from Amazon because they were cheaper there.

TqsAAui.jpg


y5B7BpC.jpg
 
1866MHz RAM is a waste of money. Just change to 1600MHz unless there is like $5 in it.

Also if you're in the USA change to the Seasonic G 550 I have linked to at the top of the page if you're using 50ppp. It's the same price on Newegg as the one you've chosen but is better in every single way.

Done. Anything else?
 

Katyusha

Member
Shoutout to MisterNoisy, for being so generous and sending me some fans (picked them up on Monday since UPS was holding them for some stupid reason.)

Fans are working great! Now I have a nice little push-pull setup on my Hyper 212 and a good rear exhaust.

Thanks again, man!
 

lemonade

Member
hey gaf

i have an annoying problem. yesterday i took out my cpu to apply thermal paste and put together my pc again. now when i turn my pc on, it turns on for a quick second and shuts off. i've tried everything from booting one stick of ram, cleaning out the dust, resetting the cmos... nothing seems to work. i've jumped it as well. i must admit, i did accidentally place a firewire cable in an usb port. i know, i've read today in my manual that it could ruin the motherboard. could that be the reason? help would greatly be appreciated.

i52500k
580 lightning xtreme
gskill f3 12800cl9d8gbrl ram
asus gene-z motherboard
1050 corsair psu
obsidian 650d case

*** i also took out motherboard battery for 15 min and took out everything to make sure equipment was properly seated. motherboard was properly seated on standoffs as well. (650d case has preseated standoffs)
 

brentech

Member
hey gaf

i have an annoying problem. yesterday i took out my cpu to apply thermal paste and put together my pc again. now when i turn my pc on, it turns on for a quick second and shuts off. i've tried everything from booting one stick of ram, cleaning out the dust, resetting the cmos... nothing seems to work. i've jumped it as well. i must admit, i did accidentally place a firewire cable in an usb port. i know, i've read today in my manual that it could ruin the motherboard. could that be the reason? help would greatly be appreciated.

i52500k
580 lightning xtreme
gskill f3 12800cl9d8gbrl ram
asus gene-z motherboard
1050 corsair psu
obsidian 650d case
I don't want to sound like an ass, but are you sure you plugged the cpu fan back to to cpufan header and not a nearby casefan header?
Or something of the like?
Always gotta check the simple stuff first.
 

lemonade

Member
I don't want to sound like an ass, but are you sure you plugged the cpu fan back to to cpufan header and not a nearby casefan header?
Or something of the like?
Always gotta check the simple stuff first.

yes sir! i've checked about a bajillion times. cpu fan was the one i plugged my cable in. i've scouted every possible situation. it was working just fine before i repasted.
 

Xyber

Member
So, I got myself a 680DCII Top yesterday and now I've been trying to figure out this whole overclocking thing. I'm used to overclocking my old 6950 and that was pretty straightforward. But I just can't wrap my head around how it works with this card.

I'm using Precision X for overclocking. At first I ran Furmark and tested to see how far I could push it. Got to a point where it was perfectly stable there. Then I switched over to Unigine Heaven benchmark and driver crashed almost as soon as it started. Had to go way lower on the GPU clock offset to get it to not crash.

So there's no way to manually increase the voltage (apart from modding the bios) right? Does a higher Power Target make it more or less stable? Mine goes up to 159%, but that sounds really high. I have it at 130% right now.

Also, in Precision it reports 1228MHz on GPU clock, but in Heaven it says 1346? What's right here?
 

zam

Member
So, I got myself a 680DCII Top yesterday and now I've been trying to figure out this whole overclocking thing. I'm used to overclocking my old 6950 and that was pretty straightforward. But I just can't wrap my head around how it works with this card.

I'm using Precision X for overclocking. At first I ran Furmark and tested to see how far I could push it. Got to a point where it was perfectly stable there. Then I switched over to Unigine Heaven benchmark and driver crashed almost as soon as it started. Had to go way lower on the GPU clock offset to get it to not crash.

So there's no way to manually increase the voltage (apart from modding the bios) right? Does a higher Power Target make it more or less stable? Mine goes up to 159%, but that sounds really high. I have it at 130% right now.

Also, in Precision it reports 1228MHz on GPU clock, but in Heaven it says 1346? What's right here?

It's the keepler boost clock, varies from card to card but usually around +100MHz. In your case your kepler boost clock is 118MHz (1346 - 1228).

For more info on how to overclock a 670/680 check this awesome guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1265110/the-gtx-670-overclocking-master-guide#post_17391120 . Used that guide to overclock my 670 and the principle should be the same for a 680 since they are both Kepler GPUs (I may be wrong on this, someone else in the thread feel free to correct me). The part in the guide about how to set up a fan curve in EVGA Precision X is great, my 670 Gigabyte Windforce runs completely silent at 58C even under full load.
 
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