-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Deaf Spacker
Memb
I've noticed that when I play Bioshock Infinite my temperatures are getting a bit high and so I've created a custom curve for my CPU & GPU, I'm a bit of a noob so do these look ok?
The H100i fan settings are the same for both.
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
Idling, the CPU and GPU are 40 degrees or under.
The H100i fan settings are the same for both.
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
Idling, the CPU and GPU are 40 degrees or under.
On the 670/680 (i.e Kepler GPUs) you have a GPU clock, Boost clock, and Kepler boost clock. So if you have a a boost clock of say 1084 MHz, and your maximum Kepler boost is 104MHz, your card's max clock (i.e what is the highest it will reach during any game) will be 1188MHz.
The Kepler boost varies depending on power and heat constraints, once a 670/680 hits or goes over 70C it will throttle down in 13MHz increments (13MHz at 70, another 13 at 80C, another 13 at 85, and another 13 at 95).
So basically if you have the boost clock set at 1228MHz in EVGA Precision X (or other overclocking software such as MSI Afterburner), your card can still go higher due to the Kepler boost.
You maximum Kepler boost (i.e how much higher than the normal boost you can go) is fixed and varies from card to card. For example the max kepler boost on my 670 is 130MHz. You can change your boost clock in EVGA Precision, but you can't change your max kepler boost clock.
More info on kepler boost and overclocking 670/680 here
I believe they usually post their Max Boost (i.e boost clock + kepler boost) since that is the highest their card can go (unles they increase the boost clock further). EVGA Precision or GPU-Z will show you your Max Boost if you do a stress-test (e.g Unigine Heaven or 3DMark).
To answer your question about voltage and power target:
You can change the max voltage in EVGA with the voltage tweak, if you want to go higher than that then you have to get in to more complicated stuff.
A higher power target doesn't make the GPU less stable, you are just increasing the upper limit of how much power it can use under full load. If you have the power target set at 159%, it won't be using 159% all the time, only under a full load, the card doesn't use more power than what it needs.
tl;dr should be safe to set the power target to the highest EVGA will let you, but I am in no way an expert, and EVGA precision only lets me set my power target to 112% at the most (with a Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce), don't know if 159% is uncommon or not for 680s.
Good article on AnandTech testing the latest air and closed loop coolers: http://www.anandtech.com/show/6916/...-12-more-coolers-the-retest-and-megaroundup/6
Good cooler list, would have liked to see a Zalman unit (Since I've seen them go for $35 AR...)
Of note:
I like practical tests, but this is a very good pure 'Yo how well will shit cool'.
*Can anyone comment on AIO pump reliability? It's one thing holding me back from jumping on some of the cheapy models AR.
VE3TRO
Formerly Gizmowned
I'm a little confused on fans and speeds. At the moment I have 3 NZXT FZ-140mm LED's attached to the CHA fan 1,2,3 ports which I can adjust the speeds from 600rpm upto 1200rpm.
Now these aren't PWM so are these being adjusted since they are in the CHA fan connections? I have another 2 in the OPT fan but they don't change speed.
I would like to replace these with AF140's but you can't get PWM versions.
My idle temps on the CPU are in the mid 20's to 30's and under 100% load 60's but the FZ-140's don't seem to be doing a great job at exhausting or in-taking from the front so everything inside is pretty warm.
Now these aren't PWM so are these being adjusted since they are in the CHA fan connections? I have another 2 in the OPT fan but they don't change speed.
I would like to replace these with AF140's but you can't get PWM versions.
My idle temps on the CPU are in the mid 20's to 30's and under 100% load 60's but the FZ-140's don't seem to be doing a great job at exhausting or in-taking from the front so everything inside is pretty warm.
I think I made a boo boo guys. When I built my rig back in 2011, I got suckered into buying a 1366 mobo by my friend and ended up by an i7-960 @ 3.2Ghz which is fine but I was looking on Newegg for what I could use to upgrade to from it and 1366 isn't well shown at all. There were barely any CPUs above 3.2 and the ones that were (like 3.4 etc.) were over $1000 in price. What are my options years from now when my CPU needs to go? I also have a 560Ti Twin Frozr GPU but that's getting upgraded to either a 660Ti or 670 this year.
Fractal Define R4 is on sale at newegg for $79.99 w/free shipping.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020
The promo code is listed on the page.
Awesome deal if anyone is looking for a case.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020
The promo code is listed on the page.
Awesome deal if anyone is looking for a case.
Thanks for the info zam.
I've been going through the overclocking guide, but something seems wrong. My Power percent just don't go above 75% in Heaven according to this http://i.imgur.com/4CKoFKe.png
I have the power target set at 159% and have also tried going down to 130 to see if anything changed, but nothing.
If I run Furmark it goes up to 105% without any problems.. =/
I've been going through the overclocking guide, but something seems wrong. My Power percent just don't go above 75% in Heaven according to this http://i.imgur.com/4CKoFKe.png
I have the power target set at 159% and have also tried going down to 130 to see if anything changed, but nothing.
If I run Furmark it goes up to 105% without any problems.. =/
You have no options, I'm afraid. Support was discontinued last year: http://www.techspot.com/news/46589-...lga-1366-and-lga-1156-processors-in-2012.html
As kennah says, overclock that CPU and it'll be good for another while. Should be able to get it up to 3.8 - 4GHz easy enough.
Useful article. Basically confirms the impression that I already had that closed loop coolers perform no better than air coolers but are louder and more expensive. Long live the Hyper 212!
Ahh, haven't looked around too much at pricing, your probably right!
if so, ill take $150 for it.
Fixed.
I did went ahead and bought a Noctua NH-U12S + Noctua NF-F12 fan(push/pull) for $93. For the price, I could have bought a water close loop cooler, but I prefer quietness more and the thought of water leaking onto my $1000 Titans scares me.
What is a bit high?
Good temps to aim for would be an average of high 60s to low 70s on CPU cores, and high 60s for GPU.
Arlecchino
Member
I'm able to get a basically new external 3TB hard drive from a friend for $80. It's a Seagate one, and the OP seems to indicate that they're bad.
Should I take him up on the offer, or would my data be unsafe because it's a Seagate?
Ah. That helps, thanks. Having never had any hard drive failures ever, it's definitely not something I think about often, despite knowing they're not great.
Should I take him up on the offer, or would my data be unsafe because it's a Seagate?
Ah. That helps, thanks. Having never had any hard drive failures ever, it's definitely not something I think about often, despite knowing they're not great.
"If your data is only in one place then there may as well not exist a copy at all."
Rotational hard drives are basically unreliable since there stopped being competition between manufacturers. They went from having 5 year warranties to having 1 year warranties. You can't ever trust a hard drive and the sooner you learn that the safer your data will be.
So yes, that's a good deal. Get it, but also get another one, and keep two copies of everything.
Rotational hard drives are basically unreliable since there stopped being competition between manufacturers. They went from having 5 year warranties to having 1 year warranties. You can't ever trust a hard drive and the sooner you learn that the safer your data will be.
So yes, that's a good deal. Get it, but also get another one, and keep two copies of everything.
CreepingFear
Member
I'm excited for Haswell because that means I'll be upgrading roughly a year/year and a half from now when Broadwell comes out.
Turn up fans on air cooler to match noise levels on CLC, BAM. Performance delta gone. Air coolers win again. Either go full water loop or throw in a $20 air cooler and call it a day. CLC are the worst of both worlds.
Any guides or anything on overclocking? The idea of OCing my CPU has me scared to death lol.
So I have to renew my CPU and Motherboard (my phenom 965 and mother died, but I already got 4 gb OCZ 1666mhz RAM, the HDD, a 5670 which I'll probably be upgrading later on, a Satellite 600w PSU and the case). I don't know much about hardware market, but I'm assuming buying something like an 8320-8350 is a 'safer' buy than buying something like an i5 3570. Is this correct? I'm looking to prioritize running apps like Visual Studio, local web servers, etc. And of course, games.
Also I have the option of getting a quite cheap, used i7 950 and motherboard (don't know exactly which motherboard but I've been told it's a good one). This would also give me the chance to maybe upgrade the RAM (Visual Studio plus Chrome plus MusicBee makes my W7 alert me about low RAM availability, haha). I just want something that will replace my 965 correctly and maybe also give me the chance to keep this PC kicking for a longer time (aka getting a socket that allows me to get a new CPU in the future, etc). I can't quite decide what to do yet and I'm running on a low budget (i5+motherboard is my max).
What about the PSU? I'm guessing it will be OK for any choice I make but as I said, I don't have a lot of experience in the hardware department.
Any opinions on the matter?
Also I have the option of getting a quite cheap, used i7 950 and motherboard (don't know exactly which motherboard but I've been told it's a good one). This would also give me the chance to maybe upgrade the RAM (Visual Studio plus Chrome plus MusicBee makes my W7 alert me about low RAM availability, haha). I just want something that will replace my 965 correctly and maybe also give me the chance to keep this PC kicking for a longer time (aka getting a socket that allows me to get a new CPU in the future, etc). I can't quite decide what to do yet and I'm running on a low budget (i5+motherboard is my max).
What about the PSU? I'm guessing it will be OK for any choice I make but as I said, I don't have a lot of experience in the hardware department.
Any opinions on the matter?
As kennah said, everything is 'eh' right now. Good deal, take it.
Google your motherboard + CPU + overclocking.
1366 overclocking should get you started. Guides are very similar.
Do you need a new motherboard, or will your old one support a 8320 / 8350?
No. Buy the Intel.
If you have more room in your budget, think about an X79 board and a 3820.
WD Blacks still have a 5 year warranty, though you do of course pay a premium: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136792
In all my years of using them I've only had one fail and that was after several years of constant, heavy use.
In all my years of using them I've only had one fail and that was after several years of constant, heavy use.
They are one of the better drives still yes. I don't like them because of their large premium and being (twice?) as loud as other drives.
Samsung needs to come back to save us.
I take it that means the seagate discs aren't up to par even if they bought Samsung's stuff?
They bought them out. Margins were likely far to thin for Samsung, so they left with a lot of others.
The 'Samsung F4' is just a Seagate Green (last I checked). They can go screw themselves for that deception and slashing their warranties down to 1 and 2 years.
Right now the go to is the 1TB platter WD Blue which is priced nicely and is pretty quick.
Of course! Fill out the list in the OP as well.
Boooo Seagate, boooooooo.. I was going to get another HDD for more media, but I'll probably wait before dropping that much on a WD Black.
Great. Here it is then. I actually just hit purchase on every component, but can still cancel/return items (I was eager to see if NCIX would accept my Price Match requests, and they did!).
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12P SE2 54.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($62.17 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Extreme 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($302.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($55.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1169.05
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-04-26 16:30 EDT-0400)
My final total including tax+shipping (not speedy) is $1011.57 which I am very happy with (I was targeting $1000). Most of the price difference is from NCIX accepting my Price Match requests from various retailers and from having purchased the CPU+Mobo in a bundle from MicroCenter.
Does anyone have any final comments on the rig while I can still cancel my orders or return my purchases? My primary uses are for game development and gaming. I considered the i7 for a while but the cost was just too steep comparatively.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12P SE2 54.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($62.17 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Extreme 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($302.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($55.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1169.05
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-04-26 16:30 EDT-0400)
My final total including tax+shipping (not speedy) is $1011.57 which I am very happy with (I was targeting $1000). Most of the price difference is from NCIX accepting my Price Match requests from various retailers and from having purchased the CPU+Mobo in a bundle from MicroCenter.
Does anyone have any final comments on the rig while I can still cancel my orders or return my purchases? My primary uses are for game development and gaming. I considered the i7 for a while but the cost was just too steep comparatively.
Most definitely, there was a misprice (or sale, or whatever) of it on amazon (.com not .co.uk unfortunately) a few weeks ago. I think it was 250$? Was tempting..
Can't wait for an all SSD future.
Super solid.
Just a heads up though, the R4 is $80 on Newegg right now:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...042613-Index-_-ComputerCases-_-11352020-L012D
I'd also consider looking at a Crucial M4 or M5 for the SSD.
*edit*
Also, there's this RAM that will save you a bit of money:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148543
Great. I actually drove 500 miles yesterday and had a chance to stop at the MicroCenter and pick up my case from them for $90. Then today saw the Newegg deal, doh! Oh well, it's bound to happen.
Do you know what the write speeds on the Crucial SSDs are? I picked up the Sandisk Extreme primarily for that reason since I do have to do some writing pretty frequently when I develop. What is it about their SSDs that you like/are suggesting them for?
I actually got the ram for $46 each which I thought was a damn good price for DDR3 1600 8GB sticks. Thank you NCIX Price Match!
Deaf Spacker
Memb
My CPU is fine but my GPU is reaching 80 degrees.
The M4 and Samsung 830 / 840 Pro are sort of the easy and safe standbys due to Crucial not using a Sandforce controller back when it was having some issues (In almost everything), and Samsung for being extremely reliable and offering great performance and price.
The rest of bulk SSDs like Sandisk, Muskin, Corsair, OCZ, etc are all variants on the Sandforce controller which is why they basically all peak at 550MB/s. There are differences though so you need to check benches.
Basically the m4 and 830 / 840 Pro have been proven to be super stable with good value, but nearly any nice current Sandforce drive on sale is a pretty solid buy.
You've opened them so I'll just assume you know about Titan LE and GTX780, etc.Mwhahahahahahaha
Enjoy
- Status