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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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What's really weird is your GPU is running at 25C? That's insane, I wish I had those temps, my GPU idles @ 37C @ 30% fan. Is your fan profile different? Everything just seems 10C cooler for you versus my setup. Is it the room, or do you have cooling throughout your house? Also am I reading this correctly? Your GPU fan is @ 10%?

Normally I do custom fan profiles, but I haven't needed to with this card - Asus 670 with their DirectCU II. Not sure. I did install a 120mm to blow right onto the card though. The blowhole in my case is custom too, which helps with the passive heatsink.

Lian1.jpg~original
 

Smash88

Banned

Thank you very much. :)


Normally I do custom fan profiles, but I haven't needed to with this card - Asus 670 with their DirectCU II. Not sure. I did install a 120mm to blow right onto the card though. The blowhole in my case is custom too, which helps with the passive heatsink.

Lian1.jpg~original

That makes a bit more sense as to why you may have better temps overall. The side fan brings in cool air to your GPU and Heatsink, which could result in lower temps.

How is the ambient temperature of your room?
 

lordy88

Member
So, most of my parts came in the mail today, outside of my SSD, and my Bitfenix Shinobi (the first one arrived completely broken!), and I noticed that the heatsink I got said Intell 1155 compatible, not 1150. I just got the i5 haswell, and I wanted to know if I need a new heatsink or if this one will do.

I purchased this: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus

Thanks!
 

kharma45

Member
But when they have enough money to upgrade, they'll be stuck with a AM3+ motherboard.

When they've the money they'll likely just go and get a whole new system. I'm struggling to remember anyone in this thread wanting ever wanting upgrade on the same board from one of those Pentium based builds. If you've the money to upgrade you'll spend the extra and get the new mobo too rather than being stuck with a board like a B75 or an H77 like most have.

Even then AM3+ is still a viable upgrade path, Steamroller if they hit their 30% IPC improvement should be a very good option if they price it right. At this point in time I just feel the Pentium is now a poor buy overall.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
I really wish there was an easy way to choose what monitor on which to launch a game. Tried UltraMon but couldn't really get it to work, and $40 is steep.
 

Smash88

Banned
Can't order from NCIX?

annnnnnnnnnnd beaten didnt see the new page

I don't like paying $9 for shipping, when I could could get it from a local store. That's all.

I've become very bitter about purchasing anything online, after my recent online transaction issues.
 

bro1

Banned
Anybody else having trouble with Nvidia 320.18 driver? I am having crashes in 3DMark and BF3. I downgraded to 314 and haven't had any issues yet but am trying to figure out if it is a hardware or software issue. I have a 670 that is factory OC'd.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I don't like paying $9 for shipping, when I could could get it from a local store. That's all.

I've become very bitter about purchasing anything online, after my recent online transaction issues.
Well, just about anything from Arctic Cooling will do fine. Again, we're talking 1-3C difference given the same mount. The big difference in how TIM performs is with worsening mounts. Some, like the Phobya HeGrease, PK-3, and that Noctua stuff perform pretty similar with an okay mount. Some stuff just takes a nose dive because it requires really good/even pressure.
I really wish there was an easy way to choose what monitor on which to launch a game. Tried UltraMon but couldn't really get it to work, and $40 is steep.
It is super annoying.
 

Blizzard

Banned
I got like half my parts ordered/shipped, but unfortunately since I went with the mixed vendor approach, the video card through Amazon went through Tigerdirect (credit card rejected), and the Outlet PC was a credit card rejection outright, so I have to try to get the Amazon order through with credit card support, and redo the Outlet PC order. There was also a Newegg hold but that order went through after some verification.

I love fraud detection, but occasionally it's a pain. :p
 

scogoth

Member
I don't like paying $9 for shipping, when I could could get it from a local store. That's all.

I've become very bitter about purchasing anything online, after my recent online transaction issues.

If you are in the GTA (and I assume you are near if you are going to Canada Computers) then NCIX has 3 stores in Toronto. You can even order online and do an in store pickup for free. Unless you are in Waterloo or something, in that case I can bring you some next Wednesday =P
 

scogoth

Member
Tell me more. I still need to look into the sleeving more. I have no idea what specific parts to order

Yeah I can help with that but this site will be confusing http://canada.newark.com/
They are a component distributor but they have all the connectors and tools you would need and it beats paying customs on all the stuff I had to order from the US and Germany.

EDIT:
I have time so I'll compile a list of stuff I used now
 

mkenyon

Banned
Hey Guys, I just got my Sapphire 7970 GPU, and I can't seem to find any codes in the box for the never settle game bundle. Do I need to register the GPU at www.sapphireselectclub.com, or was there supposed to be a card with the codes already on it within the box?
The retailer sends those separately. It's probably in the box that your card came in, or it will arrive in a different envelope. I've seen it both ways.
 
The retailer sends those separately. It's probably in the box that your card came in, or it will arrive in a different envelope. I've seen it both ways.

Well I order it from Amazon. Do you think I will receive it by email or mail? I guess I need to contact Amazon to find out. Thanks for the help.
 

scogoth

Member
Here Kennah, I'll also try and do some tutorials on all the different types of connections cause I found fans, USB and some other connections a bitch to do well.

rFyyli2.png

Connectors
lc49_small.jpg
1 and 2 pin Dupont Connector - Used for header connections such as front panel connections and temp sensors
lc00032_small.jpg
10 pin Dupont - used for USB/Firewire headers
lc00038_small.jpg
Minifit Jr - connector for 24-pin Main Board, EPS and PCI
lc47_small.jpg
Molex Disk Drive - the good old ugly 4-pin accessory connector
lc003_small.jpg
3 or 4 pin Fan connector - fans!
lc00056_small.jpg
SATA Push style - simply punch the cable into the slots, much easier than the crimp style and allows multiple SATA connections on one cable

Crimp Pins
lc00069_small.jpg
Male and Female ATX - for the Minifit Jr. Connectors
lc00071_small.jpg
Male and Female 4-pin Molex - for the Molex Disk Drive connectors
xmfVQyL.jpg
"Spring" Fan Pin - crimp pin for fan connectors, easier to insert and remove than Lutro0's fan connectors
lc00066_small.jpg
"Lock" Fan Pins - These seem to crimp better and make a more secure connection but are very hard to disconnect once connected
lc76_small.jpg
Dupont Pin - For all header connections

Sleeve and Heat shrink
MDPC has the best stuff but is hard to get. At minimum try and find the same 4 to 1 heat shrink so it creates a nice tight wrap on the cable. I also would recommend getting pre-cut heat shrink as well as some regular heat shrink because the pre-cut stuff makes it so much easier and neater for the individual sleeving.
Sleeving
Heats shrink

HFyVKtR.png

FrozenCPU Dual Head ATX Connector Removal Tool - broke the Minifit Jr. (24-pin, PCI, EPS connectors) removal side but the fan pin removal side is still good
Official Molex Minifit Jr Extraction tool - just ordered but its the same one you would get from dazmode or MDPC
Dual Ended Universal Molex Removal Tool
BIC Lighter - for melting the ends of sleeving
Canadian Tire Heat gun - not necessary as you can use a lighter for the heatshrink but it was on sale for $20
Molex Hand Crimp Tool - I tried a generic one and it was terrible, this one is simple but fantastic
Needle nose pliers
Sharp Scissors
Wire stripper - I use a klein tools 16-26AWG stripper I picked up a home depot
OPTIONAL Lutro0 Spacing Tool

Also if enough people are interesting I will do a full write up with pics and video tutorials
 

scogoth

Member
And now the truth comes out about how expensive cable sleeving is

Seriously spent as much in tools as I did in cable and sleeving
 
The Noctua offers better cooling, lower temps, and possibly, higher OCs. But, instead, look at Noctua's newer NH-U12S and NH-U14S cooler.

Think I would still go with the D14 if you are trying for a higher overclock unless you have size restraints. Also the U14S ends up being a bit more expensive then the D14 if you are getting a second fan for it, as well as getting real close (or even going over) to the first pci-e slot I hear.

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/noctua_nh_u12s_u14s_review,11.html
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Here Kennah, I'll also try and do some tutorials on all the different types of connections cause I found fans, USB and some other connections a bitch to do well.

rFyyli2.png

Connectors
1 and 2 pin Dupont Connector - Used for header connections such as front panel connections and temp sensors
10 pin Dupont - used for USB/Firewire headers
Minifit Jr - connector for 24-pin Main Board, EPS and PCI
Molex Disk Drive - the good old ugly 4-pin accessory connector
3 or 4 pin Fan connector - fans!

Crimp Pins
Male and Female ATX - for the Minifit Jr. Connectors
Male and Female 4-pin Molex - for the Molex Disk Drive connectors
"Spring" Fan Pin - crimp pin for fan connectors, easier to insert and remove than Lutro0's fan connectors
"Lock" Fan Pins - These seem to crimp better and make a more secure connection but are very hard to disconnect once connected
Dupont Pin - For all header connections

Sleeve and Heat shrink
MDPC has the best stuff but is hard to get. At minimum try and find the same 4 to 1 heat shrink so it creates a nice tight wrap on the cable. I also would recommend getting pre-cut heat shrink as well as some regular heat shrink because the pre-cut stuff makes it so much easier and neater for the individual sleeving.
Sleeving
Heats shrink

HFyVKtR.png

FrozenCPU Dual Head ATX Connector Removal Tool - broke the Minifit Jr. (24-pin, PCI, EPS connectors) removal side but the fan pin removal side is still good
Official Molex Minifit Jr Extraction tool - just ordered but its the same one you would get from dazmode or MDPC
Dual Ended Universal Molex Removal Tool
BIC Lighter - for melting the ends of sleeving
Canadian Tire Heat gun - not necessary as you can use a lighter for the heatshrink but it was on sale for $20
Molex Hand Crimp Tool - I tried a generic one and it was terrible, this one is simple but fantastic
Needle nose pliers
Sharp Scissors
Wire stripper - I use a klein tools 16-26AWG stripper I picked up a home depot
OPTIONAL Lutro0 Spacing Tool

Also if enough people are interesting I will do a full write up with pics and video tutorials

I would love an in-depth tutorial. I've found lots of videos online; but the quality is crap, the angles are crappy, or the videos are broken up and the order/linearity is confusing.
 

Chinbo37

Member
Ok, so I built my rig, I love it, but it it a bit noisy. its fine for me, mind you, but the Mrs complains if I leave it on all night, which I need to do for various reasons. I have the NZXT switch 810 case which came with four 140 mm fans. All of those fans are 3 pin fans and connected to one central input block which is powered by a four pin molex connector.

I bought an extra Bitfenix 140 mm fan which is connected with a four pin PWM connection. That is connected direct to my motherboard which is a MSI Mpower z77 with four, PWM/four pin inputs.


Now I am kind of a newb at this stuff so i hope I dont sound like an idiot so here it goes.

So the 3 pin fans powered by the molex connection, they are running at 100% all the time is that correct?



My goal is to make the thing as silent as possible, so at night if I am just torrenting you cant really hear it. I looked into fan controllers but I am not sure why I would need one. Most of them are 3 pin inputs, and then regulated by their own temperature connections you can connect in your computer or they are strictly manual control.

I have seen a couple with a PWM output so you can use the PWM features on your MOBO but the only really good one I found (Rheosmart), only has 3 pin inputs.



Anything that is just manual control is out because my wife uses the computer when i am not around and I dont trust her to remember to change the fan speed. That leaves something automatic whether fan control plus temperature gauges, fan control plus PWM or just PWM.


Personally I would rather change out my four 3 pin fans for four PWM fans, and then plug all five into my system via PWM using at least 1 PWM splitter. Then i can just use the automatic fan control offered by MSI.




Does that make sense and does anyone have any recommendations?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Ok, so I built my rig, I love it, but it it a bit noisy. its fine for me, mind you, but the Mrs complains if I leave it on all night, which I need to do for various reasons. I have the NZXT switch 810 case which came with four 140 mm fans. All of those fans are 3 pin fans and connected to one central input block which is powered by a four pin molex connector.

I bought an extra Bitfenix 140 mm fan which is connected with a four pin PWM connection. That is connected direct to my motherboard which is a MSI Mpower z77 with four, PWM/four pin inputs.


Now I am kind of a newb at this stuff so i hope I dont sound like an idiot so here it goes.

So the 3 pin fans powered by the molex connection, they are running at 100% all the time is that correct?



My goal is to make the thing as silent as possible, so at night if I am just torrenting you cant really hear it. I looked into fan controllers but I am not sure why I would need one. Most of them are 3 pin inputs, and then regulated by their own temperature connections you can connect in your computer or they are strictly manual control.

I have seen a couple with a PWM output so you can use the PWM features on your MOBO but the only really good one I found (Rheosmart), only has 3 pin inputs.



Anything that is just manual control is out because my wife uses the computer when i am not around and I dont trust her to remember to change the fan speed. That leaves something automatic whether fan control plus temperature gauges, fan control plus PWM or just PWM.


Personally I would rather change out my four 3 pin fans for four PWM fans, and then plug all five into my system via PWM using at least 1 PWM splitter. Then i can just use the automatic fan control offered by MSI.




Does that make sense and does anyone have any recommendations?
Yes. Before I continue though, two questions.

1) What are the parts on the inside, need CPU cooler and GPU type as well.

2) Budget?
 

Chinbo37

Member
Yes. Before I continue though, two questions.

1) What are the parts on the inside, need CPU cooler and GPU type as well.

2) Budget?



I have a i7 3770k. Currently I have the stock CPU heatsink on it (pluged into the 4 pin CPU Fan connection on the MOBO). However I have a Coolermaster Hyper EVO 212 but I have not yet installed it as I was wiating until I was ready to overclock which I have not done yet)

The GPU is a EVEGA GTX 680 2 gig.


for Budget I guess a 100 bucks or so. i dont mind paying a good price for solid fans (or fan controller if that was the better option) if it means I can run my computer all night without hassle from the wife.
 

mr2t

Banned
I got the 3770 and Asus mobo bundle from Microcenter yesterday and the ram and Phanteks PH-TC14PE cooler from Amazon today. A little while ago I started putting the cooler on and the fucking mounting screw won't screw in. The screw doesn't even look like it's threaded in a spiral. Getting a replacement Friday but I'm still pissed.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I have a i7 3770k. Currently I have the stock CPU heatsink on it (pluged into the 4 pin CPU Fan connection on the MOBO). However I have a Coolermaster Hyper EVO 212 but I have not yet installed it as I was wiating until I was ready to overclock which I have not done yet)

The GPU is a EVEGA GTX 680 2 gig.


for Budget I guess a 100 bucks or so. i dont mind paying a good price for solid fans (or fan controller if that was the better option) if it means I can run my computer all night without hassle from the wife.
So you are going to be limited on total acoustics by your stock heatsink and GTX680. Those are likely the noisiest parts of your system right now. The reference 680s are about twice as loud as the non reference coolers.

But, with the reference cooler blowing hot air outside of the case, and a stock clocked 3770K, you don't need very much airflow.

I'd really suggest just picking up another one or two PWM fans and set custom curves in BIOS. Also, put the 212+ in there.
just saw the 20% off SSD on Amazon
How good is the offer?
Are those the final prices, or is there an additional 20% on top of the listed prices?
 

Chinbo37

Member
So you are going to be limited on total acoustics by your stock heatsink and GTX680. Those are likely the noisiest parts of your system right now. The reference 680s are about twice as loud as the non reference coolers.

But, with the reference cooler blowing hot air outside of the case, and a stock clocked 3770K, you don't need very much airflow.

I'd really suggest just picking up another one or two PWM fans and set custom curves in BIOS. Also, put the 212+ in there.



Ok thanks. Ill replace some of those 3 pin fans with 4 pin PWM fans but maybe I dont need all 5 fans (if I understood you correct).


just for my own info, 3 pin fans powered by Molex run at 100% all the time is that correct?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Ok thanks. Ill replace some of those 3 pin fans with 4 pin PWM fans but maybe I dont need all 5 fans (if I understood you correct).


just for my own info, 3 pin fans powered by Molex run at 100% all the time is that correct?
Yeah, you only need 2 or 3 fans. Yes, 3 pin fans powered by molex run at 100%.
 

CountertopTable

Neo Member
Looks like it would still be more expensive than the NCIX prices.

Question btw, is there any recommendations on power line adapters? Also, do they have to be plugged directly into a wall socket or can it go through a surge protector?

They need to be directly plugged in to the wall socket. Any brand will pretty much work. Mine is a Actiontec I picked up from best buy for $70 because it was the cheapest 1 to 4 out adapter I could find and it has been working great for the past couple months. Not sure of the correct name for it but by to 1 to 4 out I mean it is has 1 ethernet port adapter that is fed directly from your router or modem and then another adapter that has 4 ports out instead of just 1 so it functions like a wired router. That way I can have my pc, ps3, and 360 hooked up all at the same time.

Big thanks to this thread for turning me on to powerline adapters because I was about to splash $300 on the asus ac 66 u router and pci e adapter but I am not a wizard when it comes to networking so I would have prob not set it up right anyways. 0 issues with powerline and my speed went from 1.6 mb on wireless to 4.0 mb download with powerline.

Edit: Here is the link to the one I got. Price is $10 more at $79.99 but it is still a good price if you need to hook up more than 1 device.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ACTIONT...4169&st=actiontec powerline adapter&cp=1&lp=2
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
There's definitely a discrepancy between HWMonitor and the Gigabyte software, which is odd to me, don't they take their reading from the same..... thing? I would think the motherboard would only be able to record a single temperature, and that this software just pulls from that.

So under load HWM was floating mainly between 58-60C while EasyTune was showing about 51C. HWM readings still seemed a bit erratic though..... Regardless, I'm well below the need to worry, I have a small OC going, and my heatsink is completely silent. I'm more than happy.

Temps_zps207732d0.jpg~original

Those are good temps for a 4ghz OC. Have you tried going for around 4.4? I've recently went up to 4.5ghz again on my CPU (not a Haswell) and am getting near similar temps than my 4.4ghz OC.

I'm curious what findings gaffers observe as I'm currently advising 2 people on potential future CPU's.

I will have to try that app you have there. I use IBT, Prime95, AIDA64, Cinebench, and OCCT from time to time.

A quick followup after some testing.......

capture29p1t.png


Thread usage got up to 10 but temps were respectable.
 

Instro

Member
They need to be directly plugged in to the wall socket. Any brand will pretty much work. Mine is a Actiontec I picked up from best buy for $70 because it was the cheapest 1 to 4 out adapter I could find and it has been working great for the past couple months. Not sure of the correct name for it but by to 1 to 4 out I mean it is has 1 ethernet port adapter that is fed directly from your router or modem and then another adapter that has 4 ports out instead of just 1 so it functions like a wired router. That way I can have my pc, ps3, and 360 hooked up all at the same time.

Big thanks to this thread for turning me on to powerline adapters because I was about to splash $300 on the asus ac 66 u router and pci e adapter but I am not a wizard when it comes to networking so I would have prob not set it up right anyways. 0 issues with powerline and my speed went from 1.6 mb on wireless to 4.0 mb download with powerline.

Edit: Here is the link to the one I got. Price is $10 more at $79.99 but it is still a good price if you need to hook up more than 1 device.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ACTIONT...4169&st=actiontec powerline adapter&cp=1&lp=2

Thanks for the info, I've been actually going back and forth on a one or 4 port version.
 

CountertopTable

Neo Member
Thanks for the info, I've been actually going back and forth on a one or 4 port version.

I think the 1 port versions are cheaper but you never know when you might need an extra ethernet port. My wireless is spotty from up in my room when the router is on the main floor so I wanted to be able to hook up ps3 up for better netflix streaming. Works great. Only issue I had was the blinking LED's at night in my room so I used so electrical tape to black them out.
 
I have $150 to burn and I'm not sure if I should buy another HDD for video/pr0n, an H100i(I currently have Corsair A70) or I've always wanted one of these
31IYJt%2B5NiL.jpg
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
I have $150 to burn and I'm not sure if I should buy another HDD for video/pr0n, an H100i(I currently have Corsair A70) or I've always wanted one of these
31IYJt%2B5NiL.jpg

Must look into this myself. Dust is an issue I'm constantly monitoring.

I have an H100i and it works really well.
 
Any reason to get a Noctua NH-D14 over the CM 212 EVO?

Had a chance to go with Noctuas recently:

Noctua oozes quality from every pore; from the packaging to the finish to the performance and quietness. The brown looks really nice in real life too, not a fan of it in most pics.

Idle temps are around 30-35C.
People have reported as low as 4.1 and as high as 4.7. It really is a lottery. I'm still testing, and I hope I can at least hit 4.4ghz. Because when I tried 4.5 and 4.6 it was unstable or didn't even load up. 4.5 could get into windows, but the Vcore of 1.275 wasn't enough to run Prime95 - And attempting 1.3 vcore is just too much of a risk and potential degradation to the CPU.

Degradation to the CPU? What is Haswell's max recommended voltage? For Ivy it's 1.5. I have 1.416 Vcore on my 3770K to reach 4.7GHz. Some chips just need the volts to run stable at those speeds. If you hit your heatwall it will downclock to save itself. I can't imagine Haswell being much different from Ivy.
 

BigBoss

Member
Does anybody here have a Powercolor AMD 7970? I know the 7970 is a great card but I've read some bad things about Powercolor, their cards apparently heat up quite a lot. I can get one for $330 and I was wondering if I should go for it or wait until prices drop some more since Nvidia just released their new 700 cards?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Just installed an MSI Lightning 7970 on my test bench. My BenQ XL2420T felt like total crap, my eyes felt like they were getting urinated on.

Turns out, there's no dual link DVI connectors on the 7970 Lightning. VADERNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Still have S23A750D, but man. 60Hz looks even worse when it's next to 120Hz glory.

Also, this Lightning is way more quiet than the DCII cooler at idle. We'll see what happens when I'm in game, but idle is the only time I'm really bothered, since that's when I dont have my headphones on.
 
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