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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Pandemic

Member
Based off the responses, the main consensus is to get a new GPU and RAM?

Then, later down the track, I'll upgrade the MOBO/CPU/new system, etc?

If I do just upgrade those two, the GPU and RAM, how long can I expect that to last me in terms of latest games?

I'm trying to wrap my head around all the technical words, but definitely appreciate ya'll help.
 

Renekton

Member
Based off the responses, the main consensus is to get a new GPU and RAM?

Then, later down the track, I'll upgrade the MOBO/CPU, etc?

I'm trying to wrap my head around all the technical words, but definitely appreciate ya'll help.
Apologies.

If you are getting new motherboard and CPU, then don't upgrade the RAM until you get the motherboard CPU because they need a new type of RAM.

But if you're aiming to keep most of what you have including the CPU, then GPU + RAM would have the biggest impact.
 

Pandemic

Member
Apologies.

If you are getting new motherboard and CPU, then don't upgrade the RAM until you get the motherboard CPU because they need a new type of RAM.

But if you're aiming to keep most of what you have including the CPU, then GPU + RAM would have the biggest impact.

All good mate, I'm learning as I go along hahah.

Alright, so.. Is my CPU good to keep for a while longer or should I just upgrade the MOBO, CPU and RAM now? I'd probably be looking at upgrading those parts next year as worst case?

It's more so of how long left my MOBO and CPU have left in terms of use before I need to upgrade them. If their getting old, then I'll just upgrade all three now I guess, or I can wait if something newer is coming out next year?

GPU is a definite, and in saying this, will I be able to reuse this when I replace everything else next year?

Hopefully I've made sense. Cheers.
 

spootime

Member
All good mate, I'm learning as I go along hahah.

Alright, so.. Is my CPU good to keep for a while longer or should I just upgrade the MOBO, CPU and RAM now? I'd probably be looking at upgrading those parts next year as worst case?

It's more so of how long left my MOBO and CPU have left in terms of use before I need to upgrade them. If their getting old, then I'll just upgrade all three now I guess, or I can wait if something newer is coming out next year?

GPU is a definite, and in saying this, will I be able to reuse this when I replace everything else next year?

Hopefully I've made sense. Cheers.

Do you use a 144hz monitor?
 

Renekton

Member
All good mate, I'm learning as I go along hahah.

Alright, so.. Is my CPU good to keep for a while longer or should I just upgrade the MOBO, CPU and RAM now? I'd probably be looking at upgrading those parts next year as worst case?

It's more so of how long left my MOBO and CPU have left in terms of use before I need to upgrade them. If their getting old, then I'll just upgrade all three now I guess, or I can wait if something newer is coming out next year?

GPU is a definite, and in saying this, will I be able to reuse this when I replace everything else next year?

Hopefully I've made sense. Cheers.
Two scenarios I think:

Bang for buck
The 3770K has lots of life left, at least a couple years. This is assuming your motherboard is in good condition and has not given any problems. If you don't want to spend too much but want a good boost, just change GPU and RAM.

Want a real upgrade
Wait till November when Intel releases 8350K-8700K line CPUs, then upgrade your mobo+CPU+RAM together at that time. (Edit: Yeah you can get the GPU first)

If you want a big boost immediately and can't wait, then get 7700K + Z270 + DDR4.
 

Pandemic

Member
Do you use a 144hz monitor?

Nah, it's just a standard Samsung 19 inch monitor. But I'm looking at getting a new monitor too.

Two scenarios I think:

Bang for buck
The 3770K has lots of life left, at least a couple years. This is assuming your motherboard is in good condition and has not given any problems. If you don't want to spend too much but want a good boost, just change GPU and RAM.

Want a real upgrade
Wait till November when Intel releases 8350K-8700K line CPUs, then upgrade your mobo+CPU+RAM together at that time.

If you want a big boost immediately and can't wait, then get 7700K + Z270 + DDR4.

I can definitely wait, so I'll cross out the last option.

My MOBO hasn't been giving me any issues from what I can see, apart from the Rainbow Six Siege issue but not sure what was causing that, even then I can wait till November. By the sounds of it, I'm looking at the second option of waiting until November. In the meantime, will I just upgrade the GPU?

As I go along into next year, can I reuse these parts into next year when I upgrade other parts? I won't have to buy a WHOLE new system and have wasted my money?

Thanks for the responses fellas.
 
As I go along into next year, can I reuse these parts into next year when I upgrade other parts? I won't have to buy a WHOLE new system and have wasted my money?

Thanks for the responses fellas.

Whether you upgrade in November or next year, it will only be the RAM+CPU+MOBO that you will be exchanging for new ones. Those three go together.

The rest, and any new GPU you can get today for your current system will work with *every cpu+mobo combo for the foreseeable future (* except your cooler that will need an adapter for the newer AMD mobos, but not for any upcoming Intel ones )
 

Vamp

Member
What do you think about this configuration

Motherboard Gigabyte B250M-D3H
CPU Core i5-7400 Kaby Lake Quad 3.0GHz LGA 1151 6MB BOX
RAM DDR4 Kingston 2x4GB
GPU GeForce GTX 1050 Ti Gaming 4GB
Case Deepcool D-Shield w/USB 3.0
PSU DeepCool 350-480W
CPU Cooler Intel Stock
HDD 1TB SATA3

It cost 710 US dollars.

I need intel cpu because i am planning to install mac os on it and it has best support.

Will use it for iOS programming and some light gaming (dark souls games) on 1080p.
 

vall03

Member
This must have been answered over and over again but, when going for a budget PC build should I got Intel or AMD? I'm still on the fence whether to go G4560/i3-7100 or Ryzen 3 1200/1300X. I'm still unsure of my budget as well since there are usually hidden costs that are not usually shown in build lists, but I want the initial entry point to be as low as possible.
 

kmfdmpig

Member
This must have been answered over and over again but, when going for a budget PC build should I got Intel or AMD? I'm still on the fence whether to go G4560/i3-7100 or Ryzen 3 1200/1300X. I'm still unsure of my budget as well since there are usually hidden costs that are not usually shown in build lists, but I want the initial entry point to be as low as possible.

Some of the costs not always mentioned are:
Mouse, keyboard, monitor (assuming that you already have ones).
OS
Microsoft Office (if you need it)

If you factor those in and the hardware you should be golden.
 

legacyzero

Banned
So my wife just bought me a SSD for my birthday. Is there any trick to hooking it into my existing PC? Like.. Will it be able to stand on it's own? Or do I have to do a raid something something?
 
So my wife just bought me a SSD for my birthday. Is there any trick to hooking it into my existing PC? Like.. Will it be able to stand on it's own? Or do I have to do a raid something something?

Just plug it into a SATA port. Assuming you're currently using an HDD though and want to move the OS across, you're going to need to clone the drive.
 

legacyzero

Banned
Just plug it into a SATA port. Assuming you're currently using an HDD though and want to move the OS across, you're going to need to clone the drive.
1: is here a particular sata cable I need? Is hat the only cable I'll need? The instructions show two cables.

2: I'm looking to just use the SSD to capture footage to. Is that possible without having windows boot from it? Is this even smart?
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
1: is here a particular sata cable I need? Is hat the only cable I'll need? The instructions show two cables.

2: I'm looking to just use the SSD to capture footage to. Is that possible without having windows boot from it? Is this even smart?

you need a SATA 3 cable to connect it to the motherboard and of course the PSU SATA cable to power it.

you could just stick the SSD in as a secondary drive to record to but ideally you'd use it as a boot drive due to the much improved speeds. your boot up times will increase significantly and your entire OS will feel much faster.
 
This must have been answered over and over again but, when going for a budget PC build should I got Intel or AMD? I'm still on the fence whether to go G4560/i3-7100 or Ryzen 3 1200/1300X. I'm still unsure of my budget as well since there are usually hidden costs that are not usually shown in build lists, but I want the initial entry point to be as low as possible.

Mouse, Keyboard, OS, Software additions, Headset, Microphone, Mousepad, Desk and chair if you do not have one.

The last build I did came out to be around 2500 and then I had an additional 600 in random expenses. Peripherals can be found on sale all the time and if you have access to amazon it eases the pain.

Just like your build sheet you should also make a "what I need for use" sheet. Nothing is more frustrating then getting everything and then realizing you forgot something stupid simple.
 
1: is here a particular sata cable I need? Is hat the only cable I'll need? The instructions show two cables.

2: I'm looking to just use the SSD to capture footage to. Is that possible without having windows boot from it? Is this even smart?

blly155 covered most of it, though just in case, could you provide a picture of what's in the instructions?

Edit: Or otherwise, the model of SSD so one could find the instructions online.
 

kmfdmpig

Member
The Samsung 850 Evo

The wires into it will be the same as those into your existing hard drive:
A Sata cable (the smaller one), which will connect to the motherboard
and
The power cable. The power cables for hard drives typically have several on one line, so if you see the larger cable connected to the existing hard drive look to see if it has another outlet further down the cable. You'd use that one for the SSD.

Some cases have special spots to attach 2.5 drives, while for others you'd just need a 3.5 inch to 2.5 inch caddy.

Once you install it I'd recommend cloning your existing drive and then setting the 850 Evo as your boot drive.

Basically you want your SSD to have Windows and Office as the extra speed will be quite noticeable for those.
 
hey guys the EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W PSU is on sale for $80-$85 after a $20 rebate.

It appears to be the lowest price it's ever been, anywhere. If you 're in the market and need more overhead, seems to be a great time to buy.
 

Pandemic

Member
Whether you upgrade in November or next year, it will only be the RAM+CPU+MOBO that you will be exchanging for new ones. Those three go together.

The rest, and any new GPU you can get today for your current system will work with *every cpu+mobo combo for the foreseeable future (* except your cooler that will need an adapter for the newer AMD mobos, but not for any upcoming Intel ones )

Alright, sounds good. I'll just upgrade the GPU for now then. Which GPU is recommended?

Thanks for the help fellas!
 

MikeBison

Member
Have never built a PC before, but want to take the plunge.

So I have a games room with a sweet couch and opposite is all my consoles, connected to an LG oled/4K.

Perpendicular to that is a big computer desk with loads of cubby holes. Has an extension up above that's currently topped with loads of console boxes from 90s and figurines and such. Also has a PVM on it, but I can move that elsewhere.

So.

I want to build a good spec PC that could go in either place and ideally, hook up to both the TV for couch gaming with a controller, and a monitor on the desk for let's say CRPGs, when I want to get nice and close.

From the limited knowledge I have, I'm guessing 1070/1080 for the card to handle some 4K to make the most of the Oled?

Talk to me about Ryzen. I hear some buzz. Am I right in saying is cheaper per performance than corresponding Intel CPUs?

I really am clueless, and it's a brave new world.

I don't want to go balls out top of the line, but I don't mind spending well to get great performance. Already have a Pro, so a bump over that would be nice. Even if it's hitting the same graphical fidelity and resolution, but getting a solid 60fps.
 
Have never built a PC before, but want to take the plunge.

So I have a games room with a sweet couch and opposite is all my consoles, connected to an LG oled/4K.

Perpendicular to that is a big computer desk with loads of cubby holes. Has an extension up above that's currently topped with loads of console boxes from 90s and figurines and such. Also has a PVM on it, but I can move that elsewhere.

So.

I want to build a good spec PC that could go in either place and ideally, hook up to both the TV for couch gaming with a controller, and a monitor on the desk for let's say CRPGs, when I want to get nice and close.

From the limited knowledge I have, I'm guessing 1070/1080 for the card to handle some 4K to make the most of the Oled?

Talk to me about Ryzen. I hear some buzz. Am I right in saying is cheaper per performance than corresponding Intel CPUs?

I really am clueless, and it's a brave new world.

I don't want to go balls out top of the line, but I don't mind spending well to get great performance. Already have a Pro, so a bump over that would be nice. Even if it's hitting the same graphical fidelity and resolution, but getting a solid 60fps.

The big thing with Ryzen is its multi-threaded performance, in that it has more cores and threads than similarly priced Intel CPUs, so in programs that really eat that stuff up, it'll perform better through simply having more cores to work with. So stuff like streaming, photoshop, video rendering, 3D modelling, etc.

In the immediacy, intel CPUs still pull just ahead overall for gaming performance - though Ryzen has certainly closed the gap from when it first launched - with the i7 7700k as the king in such regard atm. Intel however is already looking at the possibility of a new generation of processors in the form of Coffee Lake, expected sometime later this year, which will have core counts bumped up from previous generations of processors. Thus with the progression in core counts in availability, it's presumed developers will start to actually utilise them more. Ryzen processors now and in future will all be using the AM4 socket however - or some variant - providing much more room to upgrade without having to necessarily swap out your motherboard or the like down the like, where Coffee Lake is not compatible with motherboards for other, prior 'Lake' CPUs.

The Ryzen 1600 is roughly about where the best 'performance for dollar' overall is regarded atm by many, since it's got enough cores to be good at multi-threaded workloads, while the 1700 and higher don't really get much more in terms of game performance (ie, framerates) in most titles. So I'd say right now, your choice is either the Ryzen 1600 as a jack of all trades, or the 7700k for absolute framerate push.

With regards to 4K, you're gonna have to compromise somewhere. The 1080 Ti, the most powerful GPU on the market, also the second most expensive, and will only sometimes hit 60 FPS on max settings at 4K - in many cases it'll be in the '60 but with a fair few dips' range. The GTX 1080 is able to comfortably handle 4K at 30 FPS with comfortable headroom, but it usually won't come close to 60 without dropping a lot of settings. The GTX 1070 can just about achieve 4K 30, but more readily risks falling below that baseline. Usually it's regarded as more of a 1440p card.

Vega 56 and 64 have just released, from AMD, aimed at the GTX 1070 and 1080 respectively, with roughly similar performance.

So either you get a (relatively) cheaper card and accept lower settings for sheer resolution - which can be acceptable - or yeah, you spend some heavy cash.
 

MikeBison

Member
The big thing with Ryzen is its multi-threaded performance, in that it has more cores and threads than similarly priced Intel CPUs, so in programs that really eat that stuff up, it'll perform better through simply having more cores to work with. So stuff like streaming, photoshop, video rendering, 3D modelling, etc.

In the immediacy, intel CPUs still pull just ahead overall for gaming performance - though Ryzen has certainly closed the gap from when it first launched - with the i7 7700k as the king in such regard atm. Intel however is already looking at the possibility of a new generation of processors in the form of Coffee Lake, expected sometime later this year, which will have core counts bumped up from previous generations of processors. Thus with the progression in core counts in availability, it's presumed developers will start to actually utilise them more. Ryzen processors now and in future will all be using the AM4 socket however - or some variant - providing much more room to upgrade without having to necessarily swap out your motherboard or the like down the like, where Coffee Lake is not compatible with motherboards for other, prior 'Lake' CPUs.

The Ryzen 1600 is roughly about where the best 'performance for dollar' overall is regarded atm by many, since it's got enough cores to be good at multi-threaded workloads, while the 1700 and higher don't really get much more in terms of game performance (ie, framerates) in most titles. So I'd say right now, your choice is either the Ryzen 1600 as a jack of all trades, or the 7700k for absolute framerate push.

With regards to 4K, you're gonna have to compromise somewhere. The 1080 Ti, the most powerful GPU on the market, also the second most expensive, and will only sometimes hit 60 FPS on max settings at 4K - in many cases it'll be in the '60 but with a fair few dips' range. The GTX 1080 is able to comfortably handle 4K at 30 FPS with comfortable headroom, but it usually won't come close to 60 without dropping a lot of settings. The GTX 1070 can just about achieve 4K 30, but more readily risks falling below that baseline. Usually it's regarded as more of a 1440p card.

Vega 56 and 64 have just released, from AMD, aimed at the GTX 1070 and 1080 respectively, with roughly similar performance.

So either you get a (relatively) cheaper card and accept lower settings for sheer resolution - which can be acceptable - or yeah, you spend some heavy cash.

Thanks for the info and taking the time to type that out. Easy to follow too. I guess 4K monitors come at a mad premium too, especially if you want some of the cool features or higher refresh rates. So maybe I'm better targeting 1440/60. Whilst I do enjoy the high resolution, I'd rather pure graphical settings and that high frame rate.
 
Thanks for the info and taking the time to type that out. Easy to follow too. I guess 4K monitors come at a mad premium too, especially if you want some of the cool features or higher refresh rates. So maybe I'm better targeting 1440/60. Whilst I do enjoy the high resolution, I'd rather pure graphical settings and that high frame rate.

For a PC monitor, that would be the route I'd suggest. Use the big screen for 4K30, or perhaps 4K60 on older titles that aren't as demanding if you grab a GTX 1080 or Vega 64. Even games from 10 years ago can look just stunning at a 4K resolution.
 

MikeBison

Member
For a PC monitor, that would be the route I'd suggest. Use the big screen for 4K30, or perhaps 4K60 on older titles that aren't as demanding if you grab a GTX 1080 or Vega 64. Even games from 10 years ago can look just stunning at a 4K resolution.

So perhaps GTX1080/Ryzen 1600 or the i7. Anything I need to look for in regards to the rest? Motherboard/Ram/etc?
 
So perhaps GTX1080/Ryzen 1600 or the i7. Anything I need to look for in regards to the rest? Motherboard/Ram/etc?


GTX 1080/Ryzen 1600 has been a good pairing for me along with a 144hz/1080p monitor.

The ASRock B350m Pro 4 has been a great motherboard for it too, Corsair Vengeance LPX seems to run fine on the board too, but there's probably better RAM out there.
 
So perhaps GTX1080/Ryzen 1600 or the i7. Anything I need to look for in regards to the rest? Motherboard/Ram/etc?

With Ryzen it's less of a concern, since all their CPUs are unlocked for overclocking, and their boards similarly so (IIRC anyway) so even a cheaper B350 board can provide a basic overclock (though obviously something like X370 might provide more features). That said there's still RAM compatibility issues being worked out for higher frequencies, so if you pick a board, it's best to go checking through its compatible RAM list if it has one.

With Intel, you've got less RAM issues and should be able to just buy and slot in whatever just fine, but if you want to overclock you really will have to look into a Z270 board.

Other general build tips:
Make sure to figure out what you want in terms of form factor. ATX is the largest, provides the most PCIE slots, needs the biggest cases. m(icro)ATX is basically 'medium', with a couple slots, but smaller and easier to handle with not too much lost for most users. ITX, the smallest form factor. Tiny motherboards that usually support just a GPU, and only have two slots for RAM. Only way you'll get close to game console size on cases.

Do not skimp on the PSU. Make sure it's got a good rating, make sure it provides enough power for your build under load, and if you're willing to spend, go for modularity - it's easier to do cable management when you can excise whatever cables you aren't using.

Your RAM is gonna be DDR4. DDR3 is incompatible with slots intended for DDR4, and all current gen processors are built with DDR4 compliant motherboards.

Get an SSD. Whether it's in the form of an M.2 Drive, or a traditional 2.5 inch drive, make it house your operating system, and enjoy the fast boot times.
 

legacyzero

Banned
The wires into it will be the same as those into your existing hard drive:
A Sata cable (the smaller one), which will connect to the motherboard
and
The power cable. The power cables for hard drives typically have several on one line, so if you see the larger cable connected to the existing hard drive look to see if it has another outlet further down the cable. You'd use that one for the SSD.

Some cases have special spots to attach 2.5 drives, while for others you'd just need a 3.5 inch to 2.5 inch caddy.

Once you install it I'd recommend cloning your existing drive and then setting the 850 Evo as your boot drive.

Basically you want your SSD to have Windows and Office as the extra speed will be quite noticeable for those.
So Ive got it plugged in and the software is installed, but I can't get he drive to show up. It shows in the software but I can't access it through windows. It won't show in the bios either.

I did not clone it.
Did I miss something?
 

cheezcake

Member
Built my new PC and it's all running good so far!

But I didn't get a Destiny 2 promo code inside my gtx 1080ti box, anyone know if I can just contact nvidia support and ask for a code?
 

kuYuri

Member
Built my new PC and it's all running good so far!

But I didn't get a Destiny 2 promo code inside my gtx 1080ti box, anyone know if I can just contact nvidia support and ask for a code?

Where did you buy it from? Cause Nvidia will just direct you to the retailer.
 

cheezcake

Member
New build set up and smoothly operating :)

tvIpOXA.jpg
 

MikeBison

Member
With Ryzen it's less of a concern, since all their CPUs are unlocked for overclocking, and their boards similarly so (IIRC anyway) so even a cheaper B350 board can provide a basic overclock (though obviously something like X370 might provide more features). That said there's still RAM compatibility issues being worked out for higher frequencies, so if you pick a board, it's best to go checking through its compatible RAM list if it has one.

With Intel, you've got less RAM issues and should be able to just buy and slot in whatever just fine, but if you want to overclock you really will have to look into a Z270 board.

Other general build tips:
Make sure to figure out what you want in terms of form factor. ATX is the largest, provides the most PCIE slots, needs the biggest cases. m(icro)ATX is basically 'medium', with a couple slots, but smaller and easier to handle with not too much lost for most users. ITX, the smallest form factor. Tiny motherboards that usually support just a GPU, and only have two slots for RAM. Only way you'll get close to game console size on cases.

Do not skimp on the PSU. Make sure it's got a good rating, make sure it provides enough power for your build under load, and if you're willing to spend, go for modularity - it's easier to do cable management when you can excise whatever cables you aren't using.

Your RAM is gonna be DDR4. DDR3 is incompatible with slots intended for DDR4, and all current gen processors are built with DDR4 compliant motherboards.

Get an SSD. Whether it's in the form of an M.2 Drive, or a traditional 2.5 inch drive, make it house your operating system, and enjoy the fast boot times.

Thanks again. That's cleared a lot up!
 

kmfdmpig

Member
Awesome, I'll look into it!

EDIT: This worked! Thank you very much! I knew there was some dumb little thing I had to do. But I've never done it before. I've never seen install instructions be so goddamn simple, yet so hard to understand.

Yeah, it used to be easier as I don't remember having to do any of those steps with older systems. I'm glad you're up and running.

Did you decide whether to clone your boot drive so you can boot from the SSD? If so the Magician software which I think comes with the drive (or is a free download) should make that easy. Having it as your boot drive will make everything much snappier. Then you could think of how to spend some of the extra space (programs you use often which load slowly, Office, a game or two, etc...).
 
Yeah, it used to be easier as I don't remember having to do any of those steps with older systems. I'm glad you're up and running.

Did you decide whether to clone your boot drive so you can boot from the SSD? If so the Magician software which I think comes with the drive (or is a free download) should make that easy. Having it as your boot drive will make everything much snappier. Then you could think of how to spend some of the extra space (programs you use often which load slowly, Office, a game or two, etc...).

You used to have to do it from DOS using commands.
 

Lexxism

Member
So, the difference between Asus ROG PG278Q with PG278QR is the refresh rate? 144hz vs 165hz? Is that pretty much it? Or is there anything else?

edit: Or the 165hz is a different model?
 

kuYuri

Member
So, the difference between Asus ROG PG278Q with PG278QR is the refresh rate? 144hz vs 165hz? Is that pretty much it? Or is there anything else?

edit: Or the 165hz is a different model?

It's pretty much 165hz and it also adds an HDMI port that previous model didn't have.
 

Ryne

Member
I need a strong router that doesn't look like an insect with all those antennae. Any suggestions?

I currently use my ISPs' modem as a router and it doesn't get all of my apartment. I have an N66U that doesn't stay connected anymore for more than 2 days.
 

kmfdmpig

Member
You used to have to do it from DOS using commands.

Interesting. I don't remember that at all for some reason, although I do remember the joys of DOS hardware installations for sound cards. I think the first hard drive I installed was back in 95 or 96. I wonder if maybe it had an installation program that handled it for me. With Windows 7 wasn't it just install and it would be recognized automatically with a drive number automatically assigned and a single partition?

I need a strong router that doesn't look like an insect with all those antennae. Any suggestions?

I currently use my ISPs' modem as a router and it doesn't get all of my apartment. I have an N66U that doesn't stay connected anymore for more than 2 days.

I have this one. Three antennas, but not too bad. Great range:
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/
 

senj

Member
I need a strong router that doesn't look like an insect with all those antennae. Any suggestions?

I currently use my ISPs' modem as a router and it doesn't get all of my apartment. I have an N66U that doesn't stay connected anymore for more than 2 days.
Unfortunately the multiple antennas are what make current routers maintain good coverage in difficult environments, because they're required for beam-forming. Anything with internal antennas tends to score much lower in coverage/range through obstacles in testing.

I swear by my RT-AC87u for what it's worth.
 
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