• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

cdyhybrid

Member
Just ordered my 1070 from Amazon. Gets here Saturday!

It says Used - Like New as the condition, but Amazon's guidelines for quality descriptions say that the original packaging is intact, but some of the outer packaging might be slightly damaged, so I think I should be alright.
 
I know this isn't a general troubleshooting thread, but I just recently assembled my Ryzen build with everyone here's help and I'm having some issues:

I assembled this PC a month ago, but over the past few days I've been having abrupt restarts. Typically when viewing a video. If I'm playing a game, listening to music, etc., it hasn't yet restarted. I leave the PC on all day while I'm at work so it can act as a Plex server and come home to it still operating fine. It only seems to restart when watching a video.

Since the issue is related to video watching, I immediately check my GPU temps on each restart and they're fine. I've since reseated the GPU, reinstalled the GPU drivers, and then tried an older driver yet the issue persists.

On this Ryzen build I had to do some minor BIOS tweaking to get it to run my ram at 3000mhz. Thinking that could be an issue, I set it back to the automatically detected speed (2133). I also reverted my CPU back to its base clock speed.

I've done all these things one by one and am still getting random restarts. I told my system to no longer restart on crash in hopes of getting an error message, but it just now abruptly restarted with no warning before I typed this message.

The only thing I brought over from my previous build is my PSU, a OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W which I bought 5 years ago. I bought it off the recommendation of this thread at the time and it still has very high reviews when I Google the name, so I'm not sure what to make of it. It doesn't feel hot to the touch after a reboot and the fan still runs fine.

I don't have a multimeter or a spare PSU around to check for sure if this is the source of my problems, so does this sound like a PSU issue to anyone else?


Edit: I went ahead and ordered a new one off Amazon, so we'll find out tomorrow!

Edit 2: Nope.
 
I know this isn't a general troubleshooting thread, but I just recently assembled my Ryzen build with everyone here's help and I'm having some issues:

I assembled this PC a month ago, but over the past few days I've been having abrupt restarts. Typically when viewing a video. If I'm playing a game, listening to music, etc., it hasn't yet restarted. I leave the PC on all day while I'm at work so it can act as a Plex server and come home to it still operating fine. It only seems to restart when watching a video.

Since the issue is related to video watching, I immediately check my GPU temps on each restart and they're fine. I've since reseated the GPU, reinstalled the GPU drivers, and then tried an older driver yet the issue persists.

On this Ryzen build I had to do some minor BIOS tweaking to get it to run my ram at 3000mhz. Thinking that could be an issue, I set it back to the automatically detected speed (2133). I also reverted my CPU back to its base clock speed.

I've done all these things one by one and am still getting random restarts. I told my system to no longer restart on crash in hopes of getting an error message, but it just now abruptly restarted with no warning before I typed this message.

The only thing I brought over from my previous build is my PSU, a OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W which I bought 5 years ago. I bought it off the recommendation of this thread at the time and it still has very high reviews when I Google the name, so I'm not sure what to make of it. It doesn't feel hot to the touch after a reboot and the fan still runs fine.

I don't have a multimeter or a spare PSU around to check for sure if this is the source of my problems, so does this sound like a PSU issue to anyone else?


Edit: I went ahead and ordered a new one off Amazon, so we'll find out tomorrow!

Hard to say for sure, but I think you're on the right path trying the PSU. If you STILL have a problem with the new PSU, try a different surge protector and different electrical outlet all together. It's unlikely, but worth eliminating those variables as possible causes.

Also, be sure you take out ALL of the old power cables and replace ALL of them with the cables from the new PSU. This not only keeps you from frying your system by using the wrong cables in the wrong PSU, but also, removes the cables as a possible cause of the problem.
 
Ok so i'm really not good at this and really need your help. I added what I think is a good pc and at just above $1000 CDN.
What do you guys think? any recommendations?
Thanks! Been so long I haven't gamed on PC!

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/7Q9pTH

Power Supply you can cut down a bit, you would be fine with the one Bloodember recomended on the Ryzen build on top of the page

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/TgW9TW/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii520bronze

If plan only gaming you would be fine on Rysen 3, but If you plan on streaming you may want to go for Ryzen 5.

Also, you could go for a micro ATX mobo and case, if you are not planning on using the extra size of regular ATX to add things inside down the road.
 

Bloodember

Member
Ok so i'm really not good at this and really need your help. I added what I think is a good pc and at just above $1000 CDN.
What do you guys think? any recommendations?
Thanks! Been so long I haven't gamed on PC!

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/7Q9pTH

Here's a better system for you. The CPU will overclock to the same 3.9ghz and even 4ghz, no reason to get the 1300x. Switched the board out to a mATX for less. Changed to a better PSU, a lot better SSD and some different RAM that is less money. With the money saved you can get a HHD for storage if you need one.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($135.94 @ shopRBC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($83.98 @ NCIX)
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($149.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($113.41 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB SC GAMING Video Card ($284.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $948.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-31 11:57 EDT-0400
 
If anyone can help on this it would be greatly appreciated.

I just got in my cryorig r1 ultimate cooler and sadly it didnt come with the am4 mounting adapter. I really need to make this computer this weekend when my friend is available.

I've already contacted cryorig days ago with the request with the free upgrade kit, but I haven't gotten any acknowledgement from them.

So two questions:

1. Would another company's am4 brace work instead or are they unique to the product/company? I can purchase a cooler master am4 brace from microcenter in NJ now if I need...

2. Alternatively, I may just return the cryorig cooler and buy a different one from microcenter instead, any suggestions on a quality cooler in stock at the NJ microcenter that would be good for a ryzen 7?
 
If anyone can help on this it would be greatly appreciated.

I just got in my cryorig r1 ultimate cooler and sadly it didnt come with the am4 mounting adapter. I really need to make this computer this weekend when my friend is available.

I've already contacted cryorig days ago with the request with the free upgrade kit, but I haven't gotten any acknowledgement from them.

So two questions:

1. Would another company's am4 brace work instead or are they unique to the product/company? I can purchase a cooler master am4 brace from microcenter in NJ now if I need...

2. Alternatively, I may just return the cryorig cooler and buy a different one from microcenter instead, any suggestions on a quality cooler in stock at the NJ microcenter that would be good for a ryzen 7?

I'd return it and get a different one if you really need it this weekend. Try the Thermaltake Ring 3.0 240 mm or the Corsair 105/110/115 (or whatever they're numbered) series of coolers. They're in-stock. BUT, when you get there, make sure the AM4 brackets are included/ask the staff to make sure.
 

tariniel

Member
I want to upgrade my CPU/Cooler/Mobo/RAM soon, sometime this year. I use it only for gaming and watching stuff. Games I play now are mostly PUBG/Overwatch/Dark Souls 1-3/Tekken 7. Coming games I intend to play: Destiny 2, FFXV Windows Edition, Monster Hunter World, etc. I also want to take a crack at emulating Demon's Souls with the PS3 emulator. My primary monitor is 1440p/60hz, secondary 1080p.

Budget: Around $500.

Stuff I want to replace:

CPU: i5-2500k
MOBO: Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
RAM: 16gb DDR3
Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 6 - this works well and I can probably re-use, but I hate how difficult it is to install and how cramped my case is with it, and every time I mess with it, I get a cut on my hand somewhere. Want something different.

Maybe replace:
Case: Fractal Define R3 - I can probably keep this? But I might need to replace some of the case fans, fairly sure at least one of the front fans isn't working and another makes noise.

Keep:
GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo / SATA
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2, 80+ GOLD 750W

What's the best strat here for the upgrade? Ryzen/Intel? DDR4? Wait for black Friday? Thanks!
 
I want to upgrade my CPU/Cooler/Mobo/RAM soon, sometime this year. I use it only for gaming and watching stuff. Games I play now are mostly PUBG/Overwatch/Dark Souls 1-3/Tekken 7. Coming games I intend to play: Destiny 2, FFXV Windows Edition, Monster Hunter World, etc. I also want to take a crack at emulating Demon's Souls with the PS3 emulator. My primary monitor is 1440p/60hz, secondary 1080p.

Budget: Around $500.

Stuff I want to replace:

CPU: i5-2500k
MOBO: Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
RAM: 16gb DDR3
Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 6 - this works well and I can probably re-use, but I hate how difficult it is to install and how cramped my case is with it, and every time I mess with it, I get a cut on my hand somewhere. Want something different.

Maybe replace:
Case: Fractal Define R3 - I can probably keep this? But I might need to replace some of the case fans, fairly sure at least one of the front fans isn't working and another makes noise.

Keep:
GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo / SATA
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2, 80+ GOLD 750W

What's the best strat here for the upgrade? Ryzen/Intel? DDR4? Wait for black Friday? Thanks!
I would be inclined to stretch the budget a bit and get the 8700k this fall (and reuse the D14). Otherwise the 8600k might end up being a good product. Ryzen is great if you have multithreaded workloads but for your uses I would stick to the high single threaded performance of intel.
 
Any ideas when RAM prices might drop, or is that a crystal ball question? I could really do with more than 16GB to handle some of the work I'm on right now, but I don't really fancy forking out £160 for 2x8GB 3200Mhz...

Guess my only other option is to get another single 8GB stick?
 
Übermatik;247517147 said:
Any ideas when RAM prices might drop, or is that a crystal ball question? I could really do with more than 16GB to handle some of the work I'm on right now, but I don't really fancy forking out £160 for 2x8GB 3200Mhz...
2018.
 
So I think I'm gonna try and hold out for the Intel 8000s... will this mean having to get a much more expensive motherboard?

Also I was looking at getting a Corsair H100i GTX Hydro Cooler - is there anyway to know if this would be compatible with the new CPUs? And are Hydro coolers much upkeep or anything? (I know nothing about CPU cooling, or anything really).
 

Ladekabel

Member
My budget might allow me to go from a Ryzen 5 1600 to a Ryzen 7 1700. Is it worth it? I won't use my PC for much else than gaming and Youtube/Twitch watching. Maybe try streaming. Don't see myself much video or audio editing but might be something I'll do down the line. Don't want to go with an X version because I want to cut cost and go with the wraith cooler.
 
My budget might allow me to go from a Ryzen 5 1600 to a Ryzen 7 1700. Is it worth it? I won't use my PC for much else than gaming and Youtube/Twitch watching. Maybe try streaming. Don't see myself much video or audio editing but might be something I'll do down the line. Don't want to go with an X version because I want to cut cost and go with the wraith cooler.

Not worth it IMO. Save the money and put it towards a GPU upgrade in a year or two.
 
So I think I'm gonna try and hold out for the Intel 8000s... will this mean having to get a much more expensive motherboard?

Also I was looking at getting a Corsair H100i GTX Hydro Cooler - is there anyway to know if this would be compatible with the new CPUs? And are Hydro coolers much upkeep or anything? (I know nothing about CPU cooling, or anything really).

Motherboards should be comparable to Z270 board prices, maybe a little more because they'll be brand new. Won't be nearly as expensive as X299 boards though so I wouldn't worry about it much.

Not sure about the cooler. I would expect it to be compatible but dunno.
 
My budget might allow me to go from a Ryzen 5 1600 to a Ryzen 7 1700. Is it worth it? I won't use my PC for much else than gaming and Youtube/Twitch watching. Maybe try streaming. Don't see myself much video or audio editing but might be something I'll do down the line. Don't want to go with an X version because I want to cut cost and go with the wraith cooler.

I'd say go for it on basis that you'll get more longevity out of the R5 1600 than the R3 series.
 

GuessWho

Member
Here's a better system for you. The CPU will overclock to the same 3.9ghz and even 4ghz, no reason to get the 1300x. Switched the board out to a mATX for less. Changed to a better PSU, a lot better SSD and some different RAM that is less money. With the money saved you can get a HHD for storage if you need one.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard[/url] ($83.98 @ NCIX)
bk]Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case[/url] ($109.99 @ DirectCanada)


Thank you!! But should I get a new case? one that is micro?
 
Thanks. I might stream some games for friends. I take it the 1600 should be good enough for that, right?

I was streaming 720p/30fps smoothly on my i5-2500k a few months ago. I'd expect the Ryzen 1600 can easily stream at 1080p/30fps if not higher, assuming a good enough internet etc. Double-check benchmarks to be sure, but you should be fine.
 
Thanks. I might stream some games for friends. I take it the 1600 should be good enough for that, right?



? I never intended to get something from the R3 series.

My bad, got your post and another post mixed up haha. In that case, stick with the R5. Gaming performance is pretty much identical between the R5 1600/R7 1700. Definitely put the cash towards a better GPU instead.
 
Maybe this isn't the place to ask this but I got a new pc and I am wondering what are the "must have" programs I should download for it?

I am using it for gaming and as a media centre; however due to work (and my background) there is a chance I will need to do minor ad creation. I was thinking of using gimp but I haven't used it in years and not sure if there is something better out there?

So far I have installed Steam, Origin, CCleaner, bitdefender & it came with a free year of xsplit - which my boys will use.

So yeah, that's all I've done. Any suggestions?
 
Maybe this isn't the place to ask this but I got a new pc and I am wondering what are the "must have" programs I should download for it?

I am using it for gaming and as a media centre; however due to work (and my background) there is a chance I will need to do minor ad creation. I was thinking of using gimp but I haven't used it in years and not sure if there is something better out there?

So far I have installed Steam, Origin, CCleaner, bitdefender & it came with a free year of xsplit - which my boys will use.

So yeah, that's all I've done. Any suggestions?


Are you also using it as a Bluray player?

If so, you'll need a program for that as well. Something like PowerDVD... sadly... due to proprietary code...

Or, you could rip your Blurays and play them on KODI...
 

kuYuri

Member
Anyone have any ultrawide and 1440p monitor recommendations? Was looking at this $1,080 one, might be a bit too high end though https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016GNX4SE/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This is what I have. If you want to pay less, try and find a refurb. Mine is also a refurb that I bought from Acer for $730.

It's practically brand new, the downside is that mine came with one dead pixel and some slight backlight bleed in the top left corner, but I don't notice it in normal use and considering I saved over $300, I think it's a good trade off.
 

Lunar FC

Member
Managed to get $200 for my 970, so pretty pleased with that.

I'm rocking a 1080ti with and i5-4690 currently. Clearly the cpu is due for an upgrade but that's going to be another investment.

Would it be unwise to go for a LGA 1151 mobo with a 7700k at this point. Or just invest more for the future and go LGA 2066? Will all future Intel chips be this socket?

Thanks.
 

Mrbob

Member
Wait for the 8700k in October.

It will be supported by lga 1151 version 2 motherboard and it doesn't sound like current lga 1151 mobos will support the 8700k.

There really isn't any "future proof" Intel motherboards right now. Whatever motherboard you buy is likely only going to work with the CPU you purchase.
 
I want to upgrade my GPU to GTX1080ti, and my shop have 2 options, ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Blower and Inno3D iChill GeForce GTX 1080 Ti X3. ZOTAC is almost 175$ cheaper, so is it worth to go for Inno3D only because of slightly higher GPU and boost clocks?
 

Lunar FC

Member
Wait for the 8700k in October.

It will be supported by lga 1151 version 2 motherboard and it doesn't sound like current lga 1151 mobos will support the 8700k.

There really isn't any "future proof" Intel motherboards right now. Whatever motherboard you buy is likely only going to work with the CPU you purchase.

Well that's annoying. I would really like for once in my life be able to upgrade my CPU without having to buy a new motherboard and take my entire PC apart. 🙄
 

ISee

Member
I want to upgrade my GPU to GTX1080ti, and my shop have 2 options, ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Blower and Inno3D iChill GeForce GTX 1080 Ti X3. ZOTAC is almost 175$ cheaper, so is it worth to go for Inno3D only because of slightly higher GPU and boost clocks?

Zotac cards have a bit questionable build quality. I mean it's not bad per se, it is rather very cost effective for them. They tend to use cheaper and fewer volta regulators, their cooling fans look massive but often enough lack the pressure to be effective and they sometimes use rubber anti vibration mats instead of thermal pads in certain parts of their heatsinks (again vrm). This results in hot and loud cards, but they will also perform fine, don't damage your build, don't catch fire and they are also way cheaper then the high end (Asus, msi, gigabyte, evga) competition. The second problem is the blower fan. Blower fans are very good in building consistent (high) pressure and very effective in moving hot air out of your case. That's very important for many builds, but they are also very loud and blower cards tend to run hot. In the end a zotac designed card, mixed with a blower style cooling system will result in a loud, very hot 1080Ti that will be prone to thermal throttling. On the other side it is still a 1080Ti, 83°C isn't dangerous to the card and even when thermal throttling it will be able to outperform a 1080 non ti with ease.
I have no idea about the Inno 3Ds card build quality, but even in the worse case scenario it should be cooler, more quiet and be able to hold its boost clock for longer and at a higher rate (no thermal throttling). On the other side, it is a lot more expansive, so the zotac 1080ti is a tempting buy.
My advise: skip the zotac blower card and buy the cheapest 1080Ti card with normal fans online. Even a zotac non blower 1080Ti is going to be a lot better and probably still cheaper then the competition.
 
Well that's annoying. I would really like for once in my life be able to upgrade my CPU without having to buy a new motherboard and take my entire PC apart. 🙄

If you wanna do that, go AMD. Their AM4 mainboards will apparently be supported until ~2020, i.e. you'll have a nice path to upgrade in a couple years. For now a Ryzen R5 1600 would be perfectly fine.
 

Philxor

Member
7933d71d39364075b1f4b5a9a67de094.jpg


b987ea4cacd443a8a51365bdc5babec7.jpg


It's a beautiful thing getting minute-by-minute updates and seeing your machine take shape!
 

bomblord1

Banned
Wondering if I can get some help overclocking a Ryzen 7. My mobo has an auto overclock feature but it only adds 200 mhz to the base clock (bringing it up to 3200mhz)

I'm not super familiar with overclocking but I've looked into it and the processor itself should at the very least be able to hit 3700mhz. Anyway, I try to play it safe and keep everything to auto and then set the processor multiplier to 37 (the helpful little bios thing says that's 3700mhz) but every time I set it to anything but auto the computer fails to post until I pull the BIOS battery and reset everything (yes I set the auto overclock feature to off when i do this). Based on what I've read about stability testing even a clock the CPU can't handle sustained it should at least post afterwards so what am I doing wrong?

Specs are
Ryznen 7 1700
MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic
Corsair H100i v2 Cooler
750W Gold rated EVGA PSU
 
Wondering if I can get some help overclocking a Ryzen 7. My mobo has an auto overclock feature but it only adds 200 mhz to the base clock (bringing it up to 3200mhz)

I'm not super familiar with overclocking but I've looked into it and the processor itself should at the very least be able to hit 3700mhz. Anyway, I try to play it safe and keep everything to auto and then set the processor multiplier to 37 (the helpful little bios thing says that's 3700mhz) but every time I set it to anything but auto the computer fails to post until I pull the BIOS battery and reset everything (yes I set the auto overclock feature to off when i do this). Based on what I've read about stability testing even a clock the CPU can't handle sustained it should at least post afterwards so what am I doing wrong?

Specs are
Ryznen 7 1700
MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic
Corsair H100i v2 Cooler
750W Gold rated EVGA PSU

Drop your memory clock back down to stock (2133?).
Then go into the BIOS, set your voltage to something reasonable (say 1.3ish?), then gradually up your core clock by 25-50mhz.

There's a lot of really good videos for this on YouTube. I followed one by TechYesCity to overclock my 1600 since I'd never overclocked anything before.
 

youzen

Member
Hey all - I'm looking to get a new PC for my cousin. He's just started college and was wanting to get one for school and gaming (really.. it's for gaming). At first, we were going to get a pre-built computer, but I think building one may be for the best.

Would the following be good?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.28 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($145.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: PNY - CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.87 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $960.38
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-01 09:06 EDT-0400
 

bomblord1

Banned
Drop your memory clock back down to stock (2133?).
Then go into the BIOS, set your voltage to something reasonable (say 1.3ish?), then gradually up your core clock by 25-50mhz.

There's a lot of really good videos for this on YouTube. I followed one by TechYesCity to overclock my 1600 since I'd never overclocked anything before.

Thanks, but why do I need to drop my memory clock? The RAM is rated for 3200MHZ and it's set as such. I've been trying to find some reviews where they overclock the 1700 but literally every single one of the reviews I've found where they overclock it they just use some Asus MOBO that has a 1 click 4ghz button in the BIOS so they don't say anything about what voltages or anything to set it to (I've usually found that CPU reviews actually give their numbers for a stable OC but that seems to not happen with the Ryzen and I have no clue how to know what a good voltage is)
 
Hey all - I'm looking to get a new PC for my cousin. He's just started college and was wanting to get one for school and gaming (really.. it's for gaming). At first, we were going to get a pre-built computer, but I think building one may be for the best.

Would the following be good?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.28 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($145.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: PNY - CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.87 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $960.38
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-01 09:06 EDT-0400

It looks great to me. I really have no suggestions to make.
 
Just as a PSA to anyone else who is considering a Gigabyte video card, and you like the 'able to OC on the fly' : the OC part is software driven and that same software, AORUS Graphics Engine, causes a direct BSOD when it tries to run. So that part of the marketing is basically bullshit since you can't actually use it. The card is fine, just not the software part.

That 'shiny new part' after seven years though (for me).

edit: to clarify: this is while running it with the card on older hardware. It seems likely the issue wouldn't emerge with a entirely new system.
 
Hey all - I'm looking to get a new PC for my cousin. He's just started college and was wanting to get one for school and gaming (really.. it's for gaming). At first, we were going to get a pre-built computer, but I think building one may be for the best.

Would the following be good?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.28 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($145.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: PNY - CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.87 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $960.38
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-01 09:06 EDT-0400

Looks good. The PSU is a bit over the top and make sure that the RAM you selected is on the compatibility list of your mainboard!
 
Top Bottom