Yep, it was the RAM. With the replacement stick it works just fine.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Yep, it was the RAM. With the replacement stick it works just fine.
Storm Brewer
Neo Member
Just a heads up in case you weren't aware, but the m.2 drive is on the back of the motherboard in that model, so it may get really hot depending on the airflow. I have the same setup (in a much bigger case) and it hovers around 50-55 C idle and up to 70 when gaming, still within tolerable limits but it might get heat throttled under heavy transfer load.
Also there are two models of VRM heat sinks for the motherboard one has a ridiculously huge thermal pad and will not be great for overclocking. Examples can be seen about halfway through this article: https://smallformfactor.net/reviews...x370-ab350-gaming-itxac-motherboards-reviewed
ASRock has stated that all new x370 mobos have the updated heat sink, but I recently bought one two weeks ago, and was disappointed to see I had the old heat sink.
I contacted customer support though and managed to get the new piece shipped to me, but your mileage may vary so just be careful about that.
Otherwise the build seems pretty great to me! I'm definitely enjoying the portability of my ITX build so hopefully it's great for you too!
Hey thanks for the reply. I've tried that and no joy. Same symptoms regardless of where the sticks are. Is my board cooked?
Phatosaurus
Member
Sorry about that, didn't read through your earlier post properly since I was just skimming through before work.
Eh, hard to say. I hope it isn't for your sake and I don't think just changing RAM sticks should ever cause any harm to a motherboard. Have you tried clearing the CMOS/removing the battery and putting it back in then trying your original RAM stick again?
That's about the extent of what I can advise, but I could link you to some possibly useful youtube videos.
Is now a good time to do a new pc build? I swear I read somewhere that upcoming Intel cpu will need another new mobo?
My 3570k is struggling with modern open world stuff... Maybe I should wait?
How is 1080ti for 4k gaming? Can it handle modern stuff at modest settings at 60fps single card?
My 3570k is struggling with modern open world stuff... Maybe I should wait?
How is 1080ti for 4k gaming? Can it handle modern stuff at modest settings at 60fps single card?
Erebus
Member
If you want to go the Intel route, you should wait until the 8xxx series launch that yes, it will require new chipset.
AMD has a viable option now though that is called Ryzen.
Phatosaurus
Member
Bought a Cooler master 212 LED Turbo for my R5 1600, can't say I'm too pleased with it.
About 5 or more fins were bent underneath one of the fan clips. Not the end of the world and probably won't make any real difference in cooling, but still seems shoddy. Secondly, the included AM4 bracket (the main reason I got this particular cooler) looks flimsy as fuck.
Ah well, probably won't be complaining tomorrow morning after I install it and see my temps drop and hit 3.8 or more on an overclock.
About 5 or more fins were bent underneath one of the fan clips. Not the end of the world and probably won't make any real difference in cooling, but still seems shoddy. Secondly, the included AM4 bracket (the main reason I got this particular cooler) looks flimsy as fuck.
Ah well, probably won't be complaining tomorrow morning after I install it and see my temps drop and hit 3.8 or more on an overclock.
Well, a couple hours after I posted that, UPS notified me that it would be delivering today. It arrived a little while ago and just got it installed. It's beautiful. =D
coughlanio
Member
When should I expect Vega Nano to be released?
Celcius
°Temp. member
Nice, I always like it when stuff shows up 1 day sooner than I expected. Should be a great card.
Thanks man. I tried clearing the CMOS and removing and returning the battery. Nothing. I've got little kids to look after and no time to dedicate to this so I'm going to swallow my pride and take it into the repair shop tomorrow. Might be a good time for a board and CPU upgrade anyway... Ryzen here I come.
Why not use the stock cooler, CM made that anyways.
Bloodember
Member
OK, guys I got some questions. First this is for a Ryzen 3 1200, 16GB ram, Gigabye B350-d3h motherboard and a Gigabyte Radeon RX550. This is all connected to a Vizio M series 55" 4k TV.
The problem is when we set the computer to 4k 60 htz, the screen starts going black every so often and we have mouse stuttering. When it's at 30 htz everything is fine. My question is, do you think it's the gpu? I've already exchanged the GPU out for the same model. Do you think the RX550 just doesn't like 4k 60htz and I need to upgrade to a RX560 or a 1050? This is not for gaming, it's a multimedia rig.
I have already changed the HDMI cable as well.
edit: Ok, after some more trial and error. It looks like the 2GB of VRAM is the culprit, it's not enough. So I'll return it to Microcenter tomorrow and get the Asus RX550 4GB model.
The problem is when we set the computer to 4k 60 htz, the screen starts going black every so often and we have mouse stuttering. When it's at 30 htz everything is fine. My question is, do you think it's the gpu? I've already exchanged the GPU out for the same model. Do you think the RX550 just doesn't like 4k 60htz and I need to upgrade to a RX560 or a 1050? This is not for gaming, it's a multimedia rig.
I have already changed the HDMI cable as well.
edit: Ok, after some more trial and error. It looks like the 2GB of VRAM is the culprit, it's not enough. So I'll return it to Microcenter tomorrow and get the Asus RX550 4GB model.
I had a similar error when I first got my 4K monitor. Switching from hdmi to display port fixed it. I figure I had a bad cable.
Hey guys any good reference material for tuning/overclocking ram on Ryzen (MSI B350M Gaming) platform? I'm currently have team Xtreem DDR4 3000 and able to run the dram in 3000mhz through a-xmp (16-18-36-16, timing by a-xmp default).
Can I manually tune it to make perform better or should I just run it through xmp?
Can I manually tune it to make perform better or should I just run it through xmp?
KO Traveling Hobo
Member
Right now I'm using a Pentium G3250, and I really want to upgrade since it is bottlenecking the heck out of my PC, but money is tight so I'm facing a conundrum.
Do I buy an i3 4170 now for a significant and dirt cheap upgrade, or hold out for November and pray for an i5 in that price range?
Normally I would just wait it out, but it seems like 1150 CPUs are becoming increasingly scarce - particularly the budget models, like the 4270 I'm looking at. And with 1150 on the decline, they seem less likely to get good deals. So there is a risk that I won't get a cheap i5, and the 4170 will be gone.
I'd appreciate any insight GAF can provide.
Do I buy an i3 4170 now for a significant and dirt cheap upgrade, or hold out for November and pray for an i5 in that price range?
Normally I would just wait it out, but it seems like 1150 CPUs are becoming increasingly scarce - particularly the budget models, like the 4270 I'm looking at. And with 1150 on the decline, they seem less likely to get good deals. So there is a risk that I won't get a cheap i5, and the 4170 will be gone.
I'd appreciate any insight GAF can provide.
I really am an idiot.
The RAM wasn't seated properly. I'm a little amazed at the amount of force required to lock it in. Anyway, all 16gb are recognised and my system is back up and running.
Thanks for your help Phato.
You don't need a ryzen specific guide, ram overclocking/tweaking is the same, find any guide. To be honest it's not gong to be worrth your time. Focus on cpu overclocking.
LG b/c7 OLEDs do 1080p120hz.
I think LG C7 is the best fit of gaming and HDR, 21ms input lag which is the lowest of the OLEDs. I game on the LG 65C7 myself.
The only thing that could happen in the future due to new HDMI spec is that the new OLEDs may come with an adaptive vsync technology.
Phatosaurus
Member
Heat. Running with the stock cooler now and under 100% load it hits 79c-80c on a 3.6Ghz/1.2v overclock. Going higher than 1.2v puts it well into the mid 80's and higher, i'm just not comfortable with that kinda heat.
I really am an idiot.
The RAM wasn't seated properly. I'm a little amazed at the amount of force required to lock it in. Anyway, all 16gb are recognised and my system is back up and running.
Thanks for your help Phato.
Glad to hear it, mate. Made fuck ups like that before myself, when I first put my 1080 in and powered up I was greeted with a black screen telling me to plug the GPU into the power supply. not my brightest moment.
RumblingRosco
Member
PCIe vs USB wifi adapter, any thoughts? I've only ever had USB adapter and they seemed fine, but I now have a 155Mbps download / 15 Mbps upload and I'd like to make sure in taking advantage of that. My old USB wifi adapter died after six years. I have two open PCIe 1x slots in my case. My router is only about 8 feet away around a corner wall.
Looking for basically the cheapest option that'll be able to fully use my download/upload on a 5 GHz connection. Any thoughts?
I should add, I'd use a front USB port for the adapter while my PCIe card would have antennas out the back of my case which is under a desk pushed up about 6" from a wall.
Looking for basically the cheapest option that'll be able to fully use my download/upload on a 5 GHz connection. Any thoughts?
I should add, I'd use a front USB port for the adapter while my PCIe card would have antennas out the back of my case which is under a desk pushed up about 6" from a wall.
TC McQueen
Member
TP Link WDN-4800 is put on sale for $20-30 every so often on Newegg. It's 802.11N only card, but it's still pretty good. I've been using one for the last 5 years and the only problems I've had with it were due to Windows updates.
brain_stew
Member
Search the used market for an i5 or i7, never buy new when you're on an older platform.
Yes, it should be located on your power supply though.
yea, one connects to your motherboard's SATA port, and the other one connects to your PSU. If you have other HDD already connected, check if the power cable has multiple connectors, you maybe able to just use the same power cable.
Oh so the power supply might have an additional connector?
I have an SSD already inside, but I haven't yet taken a peak inside my PC to see which cables are already in there
Thanks
Your actual findings may differ if you did not build your PC yourself, but usually the PSU comes with several power cables needed to connect drives and the mainboard with several data cables to connect drives. For the PSU the cables are either modular and then in the cardbord-box the PSU is sold in or connected and unremovable to the PSU. The data cables are in the shipping-box of the mainboard.
Killer Queen
Banned
Thinking of canceling the order on my other PSU and getting this one instead. Looks pretty much the same as the one I was going to buy just differently branded, this ones on sale today though. Shouldn't have any problems with this and a Ryzen 1700x and GTX1080ti right?
https://www.newegg.ca/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P2_17-139-143-_-08272017&Index=2
https://www.newegg.ca/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P2_17-139-143-_-08272017&Index=2
^^ what RayStorm said. Usually there will be 6pin to 4 SATA cable, something like this:
Depends on the psu though! so do check
650w should be enough, even if you overclock. Unless if you want to SLI :d
Killer Queen
Banned
I don't have enough money to SLI lmao.^^ what RayStorm said. Usually there will be 6pin to 4 SATA cable, something like this:
Depends on the psu though! so do check
650w should be enough, even if you overclock. Unless if you want to SLI :d
Just cancelled the order I made for my case and PSU yesterday and think I'm going to grab the shell shocker deals from today. about $35 less that I can put back into other stuff.
robotzombie
Member
Okay! Just made the two major purchases on this list:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6jskNN
The monitor and the graphics card
I noticed that the Cryorig cooler is only available from outletpc, is that a good place to buy from? I've never heard of it...
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6jskNN
The monitor and the graphics card
I noticed that the Cryorig cooler is only available from outletpc, is that a good place to buy from? I've never heard of it...
xBladeM6x
Member
I don't know that this is the proper thread for this, but here goes. Lol. Basically I'm looking to hook a good pair of headphones into a mixer (or something) that I could plug all my audio sources into, in this case, Nintendo Switch, PC, Xbox One. (Basically the point of this being that I would have all the sound going into a pair of comfy headphones, regardless of the source)
Though I'm not sure what equipment I'd need to make this happen. If there's a different thread for this, could I get a link? Thanks.
Though I'm not sure what equipment I'd need to make this happen. If there's a different thread for this, could I get a link? Thanks.
lol who knows, everyone's sporting 1080tis nowadays XD
by the way, why 1700x and not the 1700?
Killer Queen
Banned
I know fuck all about CPUs and how they work and which is better than the other. Someone made me a build with an 1800x and ive been following that, but i looked at the benchmarks between the 1700x and 1800x and the performance seemed negligible for the price difference so i just decided to go for that instead, but if its a similar situation with the 1700 and the 1700x i might just do that instead.
Yeah I bought mine pre-built from Micro Center, so hopefully the extra cables will be there^^ what RayStorm said. Usually there will be 6pin to 4 SATA cable, something like this:
Depends on the psu though! so do check
650w should be enough, even if you overclock. Unless if you want to SLI :d
Thanks again!
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
An A/V receiver. I can't give you an specific model, but heads up that there are new ones that support HDR if you want to future proof it. Also read that some models can add lag. You would just connect the HDMIs in the back, it to the display, and then you have a lot of options for sound.
Ah I see. You should be able to overclock the 1700 to reach 1700x/1800x level, but if you don't fancy that I suppose 1700x is fine.
The 1700 also comes with the Wraith Spire cooler, which is pretty good. The 1700x and 1800x doesn't come with it, so going with 1700 may save you about $100~ from the cpu+cooler difference I reckon.
RiggityRice
Member
Can anybody recommended me any pre built towers on amazon? don't want to go through building a pc again.. so yeah I haven't really paid attention to pc parts in about 5 or 6 years so if somebody could help, it would be much appreciated
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
My friend has $1500 to spend on a complete setup...I'm doing some research for him, but any guidance here would be super welcome. He has literally nothing. The only thing he said is that he wants a mechanical keyboard. Otherwise, best "bang for buck" build would be clutch at that price.
E: 4k not a thing because of budget. I told him cheaper speakers are perfectly fine for now, as well as a lower end (sub $200) monitor. Mouse I told him he needs to go to Bestbuy or something and feel the ones they have to see if he cares about MMO button mouse or just a standard "higher end" mouse. But looking at a tower build to get rolling + a keyboard.
E2: If 4K can be had at not a ridiculous price, he would be down to spend accordingly.
E: 4k not a thing because of budget. I told him cheaper speakers are perfectly fine for now, as well as a lower end (sub $200) monitor. Mouse I told him he needs to go to Bestbuy or something and feel the ones they have to see if he cares about MMO button mouse or just a standard "higher end" mouse. But looking at a tower build to get rolling + a keyboard.
E2: If 4K can be had at not a ridiculous price, he would be down to spend accordingly.
Depends on the price, or if you can swing it, save up and get a 1060 (even though it's on par with the 970 and more expensive).
I'd probably get the 1050ti because of the warranty alone, unless there was a huge price difference between the 970 and 1050ti.
edit - whichever is cheaper I guess lol.
robotzombie
Member
do people suggest buying warranties for pc parts? I just bought a monitor from amazon and a gtx 1080ti from newegg but didn't bother getting warranties, should I have?
The likelihood of your parts having problems are so slim, it's never worth it.
Graphics cards have a failure rate of below 5%, and even then the manufacturer warranty should be enough.
During the whole EVGA thermal mod pad controversy, they claimed that they were at their normal 200 dppm (defective product per million) rate for their cards, which does seem crazy low, but even if you fudge the numbers, it seems like cards don't fail very often, at all.
ShadowKingpin
Member
Looking at PSU's and have had the EVGA Supernova G2 on my list for a while, but since I am trying to cut a little extra, is it ok to go with the bronze version? What's the major difference between bronze & gold?
opticalmace
Member
Well the G3s are out, no point in going with a G2 unless you're getting a great deal. Personally I would not compromise on a cheaper PSU. A good one will last you a long time.
