hen Aïcha Tabbakhe, a French nurse, went to fill out the forms for her childrens school dinners in her small town outside Paris, she was puzzled. The box she would usually tick to say that her Muslim children didnt eat pork wasnt there. Confused, I called the town hall and I was bluntly told: From now on, thats the way it is, she said. Pork or nothing.
After years of French controversies over headscarves, pork has become the new battleground in the nations uneasy debate over national identity and the place of Islam. Bacon and sausage school dinners are being used by rightwing politicians to hammer home what it means to be French. Court battles and vicious political spats have erupted as protesters warn that controversial menu changes are sending a message to Muslim or Jewish children that to be truly French, they must eat roast pork. Politicians, as they go to war over the ham on school dinner plates, are fighting about the true meaning of French secularism and whether it has been hijacked and twisted by the right in the wake of the Charlie Hebdo terrorist attacks.
Tabbakhes home town of Chilly-Mazarin a town of about 20,000 people in LEssonne, which nudges up against Orly airport to the south of Paris is the latest of several run by rightwing mayors to announce they will scrap pork-free options in school canteens in the name of secularism. For 30 years, Chilly-Mazarin has provided non-pork alternatives to Muslim and Jewish children. But from November, that will stop. On days when the menu features dishes such as roast pork with mustard and courgette gratin, or Strasbourg sausage and organic lentils, or ham pasta bake, children whose families dont eat pork for religious reasons will be offered nothing but the side dishes. The new mayor, Jean-Paul Beneytou, from Nicolas Sarkozys rightwing Les Républicains party, says this is a commonsense way to preserve public sector neutrality. But many parents, teachers and leftwing opposition politicians call it a deliberate stigmatisation of Islam that is cruel to children by playing politics with school lunches.
Its the impact on the children that has been the hardest, says Tabbakhe. My four-year-old daughter is too young to understand that she doesnt eat pork. Its not something shes aware of and its not something we talk about. What am I supposed to tell her now? We tried to subtly tell her we didnt eat pork at home. But she thought pork was a type of dessert. She said, Yes, I do eat it, its delicious. That would be funny if it wasnt such an awful situation. She is totally confused and has picked up on the atmosphere. Shes crying at school and says she doesnt want to eat at the canteen. My nine-year-old son went door to door with a parents association petition against this and got lots of signatures from non-Muslim parents who were upset. He said to me, Dont worry, Mum, I wont eat it. He shouldnt have to be worrying about this. School is supposed to be about learning and living together, not about this. Now my nine-year-old is starting to ask, Why am I different?